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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 3:48 pm 
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I re wired my ARB switches so that the front and rear lockers can be turned on and off independently.

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Not a "Leo wiring job" but it seems to work... Ya need that plastic tool to remove the top of the switch without breaking it. :roll:

I hard wired my iPhone plug to my Kenwood DDX371 Head Unit. This way I can plug my phone in and hold it with the RAM mount up near the rear-view mirror where I like it.

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I hard wired my Rexing V1 Dash Cam using a Rexing Mini-USB Hardwire Kit. It runs from an accessory plug in the trucks fuse panel, inside the driver’s side pillar, under the headliner and comes out near the rear-view mirror.

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No more wires hanging!

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2018 1:28 pm 
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Looking good, Tom.

I've got some wiring to do still on my truck.

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 11:33 am 
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For those of you that don't follow my silliness on instagram here's a photo of my new back window;
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...and a short video Dave made of my egg crate from the GPAX run 3/16/19;



Kinda cool... beer1

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2019 1:49 pm 
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Nice and shiny.

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2019 7:15 pm 
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Nice !!
cool vid too.

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 12:54 pm 
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:shock: Now dat boy wheels his truck!

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2019 7:41 pm 
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LOL nice ~~!!

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 4:12 pm 
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Besides my secondary cat being unnecessary in NYS they melted the protective cover on my front driveshaft. Walker Exhaust makes sections that replace the secondary cats and include bungs for the o2 sensors.
53345 (driver side), 54338 (passenger side).
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Top right in montage is an Irwin impact ez out and the F’d up busted bolt I was able to extract using an impact gun…sweet little tool.

Now I need to get a new driveshaft cover…

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I’m not sure what is the true cause of knocking my back window out a couple of times within the past year. Larger tire size (35 from 33”), running tougher trials since my SAS, my bad driving or some combination… I seem to be hitting the tire and pushing it and the hilift into the glass when I’m dropping off an obstacle.

I doubt I’ll pick up any new skills before ECXC19 so I’m going to try wheeling the truck with the spare and hilift inside instead of hanging off the back.

I got a three point off-road spare tire tie-down and some heavy anchors that are almost flush when not in use. This way I can still have the back seats when the tire is back outside.

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These are tested to 5000lb Minimum Breaking Strength in vertical pull.

I hooked the ratchet part into the baby seat anchor in the back of the truck and secured the anchors through the body.

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I am hopeful I will return to Brooklyn after ECXC19 with all glass intact!

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 4:35 pm 
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I'm curious to see how the new spare tire location works out for you.

I think it's just another way of keeping passengers out of your truck.

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 5:55 pm 
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My cigar smoking, bad language and inability to suffer fools is normally enough to keep folks away...


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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 10:08 pm 
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Great mod idea Tom
yes no broken glass this time...

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 12:02 pm 
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Went down to Dave’s so that he could help change a bushing in my passenger side control arm that had backed out and might be the cause of the noise the truck makes when climbing. I needed his expertise and press.
After getting that done we realized that the drivers side arm was a bit bent;

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So we pulled it;

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Yikes! Man my lack of driving skill is becoming kinda blatant… :oops:

Anyways after some discussion it was decided Dave would make a jig to hold the arm and we could then put it in his press and try to straighten it;

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It worked! :mrgreen: Dave then welded on some tabs we’ve had for some time now to hold my ARB line onto the arm;

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Primer & paint.

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…and back on the truck;

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I’ve purchased a set of Universal Tube reinforcements from Ruff Stuff with the hope Dave can stitch weld them on before I f@ck the arms up…again.

We also finally got the antisway set up on the truck;

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After driving without it for more than a year I didn’t think I’d care…but yeah, it makes a difference. beer1

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 12:11 pm 
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Tom - what antisway did you go with?

I was looking with them when I thought my electronic disconnect had died. When it actually does, I will most probably go the anti-sway route as well - maybe one that’s dual rate.


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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 2:47 pm 
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Sorry this is not a short answer;

I had originally purchased the ”anti-sway kit” from Calshity when a got the sas kit.
After what I got from them did not work I did some research and discovered that their “kit” is a somewhat modified Currie Universal AntiRock Kit that Calshity incorporated into their SAS kit.

The tube from the Currie kit has been used to make the front cross-member.

In their picture it is the top blue cross-member;
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Mine shown on the left here;

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There is a 10” arm;

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…and it came with this POS homemade link;

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…that did not work (too long).

I got a couple of 6.5” link rods from Currie and Dave welded the tabs onto the axle. We bolted it up…works great.

I don’t see how this might help you except that I think the Currie kits are the best and that I’m pretty sure they make a kit to fit your truck.

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 4:19 pm 
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Thanks Tom. Luckily I don’t need to worry about it yet. Yup, Currie does make them for Jeeps although I’ve heard complains that they tend to squeak.


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