Last month I started having electrical problems. The truck would shudder, the dash lights would flutter and then the truck would die.
Bad alternator? That’s what I thought so I changed it.
Happened again. Lose alternator wire? Yes, so I rewired it.
Happened again. Loose ignition/isolator wire? Yes, so I rewired it.
Happened again!
Not many things as embarrassing as having your “hard-core off-road truck” flat bedded off a city street…
I bypassed the isolator wiring the alternator to the starting battery so I could drive her until I could swap out the old isolator and hope that would solve the problem.
Why on earth would you need a duel battery set up?
The simple answer is ya don’t!
However, back in the day I used to tailgate a lot with my truck and decided to install one so that I didn't kill my starting battery running the radio while BBQing in the parking lot…and I ain’t pulling that shit out now! I’m too stubborn (stupid).
Anyways, back in 2016 I purchased a NOCO IGD140HP 140 Amp Battery Isolator for my duel battery set up.
A friend recommended it and then helped install it.
A beautiful job.
Even though the NOCO has worked fine for the past five plus years at this point it seems to me that disconnecting my alternator from the starting battery and having it run through a switchable device is a mistake.
I bought a WirthCo 1213.1241 20092 Battery Doctor 125 Amp/150 Amp Battery Isolator.
It has no ignition/isolator wire. You just wire the starting battery to it, ground it and wire it to your second battery.
It’s in:
I haven’t got stuck yet, so far so good. Keep your fingers crossed for me yo!