OK, let’s talk about the “Steering linkage” on our 1st Gen Xterra; the “center link” or “Relay Rod”, the “Pitman Arm”, the “Idler Arm” and two “Tie-rod Assemblies”. As we talk keep in mind that all of these parts are “wear” parts and will need to be replaced at some time.
The harder you are (the more you wheel) on these parts the faster they wear.
Changing the “Center Link” (CL) is as easy/hard as changing your Tie-rod Assemblies; four nuts off of four ball joints. Pop them out the same as you would your tie rod ends. Loosen the nuts on the inner tie rod ends to the end of the threads and whack them with a hammer. When it releases, take the nut off and move the Tie-rod Assembly to the side. Then loosen the nuts connecting the CL to the pitman and idler arms to the end of the threads and whack them with a hammer. The CL should fall into you hand.
Put the new one in reverse, torque to spec and install new cotter pins.
From ST-27 of the FSM;
You can still get SLR stuff from Spencer through Mike (svendog) on this board or Jason (BlueX on ClubX)
I have an SLR set up. From what I’ve been told the “Grassroots” center-link is very similar if not the same as the SLR center-link.
SLR is a re-built OEM center-link. The ball joints are taken out and the ends of the center-link are machined to accept two spherical bearings at each end; four bearings like this;
in all and a split ring on the top of each side to hold them in place. Sorry I have no picture of mine out of the truck. The SLR steering kit includes a reinforced and drilled out Pitman Arm;
…and a reinforced and drilled out Idler Arm;
As far as I know Grassroots does not supply the modified Pitman/Idler arms. I assume that is why they talk about drilling them out; you just drill your OEM ones. This really isn’t that difficult as long as you have a drill press and a jig to hold the piece in place while you drill. I’ve heard of guys drilling these out with a hand drill but I wouldn’t. This self modified arm would not be reinforced as the SLR rebuilt ones. I have never heard of a non-modified one failing but again, I have the SLR ones.
SLR then uses shoulder bolts that run through the bearings to connect the center-link to the Arms (see pictures above).
The Calmini kit uses all new parts, not rebuilt OEM ones. Some folks love it some hate it. I think the main problem is the lack of support and customer service from Calmini rather that the kit itself. I know that the size bushing that is used in their idler arm has varied over the years causing problems when trying to rebuild them.
This brings us to the reason to buy an aftermarket center-link rather than replacing OEM with OEM. Yes the aftermarket is a bit stronger but like I said, all of these parts are “wear” parts and need to be replaced at some time. The reason to buy an aftermarket center-link is that it can be rebuilt when it begins to wear.
As you “beef up” parts of your steering the others become the weakest link in your “linkage”. This is why, as Damian has said, unless you are going to replace the whole system it might not make sense.
Total Chaos steering comes with a pitman and idler arm. You need to use Total Chaos Tie-rod Assemblies with their kit as their CL will not accept our OEM ones. This seems to me both a blessing and a curse. Their Tie-rod Assemblies use Heim Joints in place of the ball joint type ends on our OEM Tie-Rod-Ends. They are stronger but can only be replaced with another “Total Chaos Tie-rod Assembly”. Total Chaos also makes extended and reinforced lower control arms that can be used with coil-overs eliminating the OEM torsion bars! The complete Total Chaos set up is awesome and would be great but a bit expensive and not quite what works best for what I use my truck for. For that kind of money I’d just SAS my junk.
So after all that what would I do? If ya plan to wheel that bitch I’d get in touch with Spencer through Mike and buy his kit. Second choice would be a Calmini kit.
I can put ether in for you in a few hours but I think you could do it on your own. You’d need an alignment right after…
I’d replace with an OEM and get an idler arm brace (I have a modified Total Chaos one that is pictured above and that I think is the best) as Damian suggested before I bought a Grassroots.
Did I help or make it worse?
