now back to the stub shaft:
pull off the old yellow/green teflon rings via a small pair of needlenose pliers and a small flathead screwdriver...they might be a pain in the ass to get off, and make sure you dont nick the metal surfaces around them....


now install the corresponding teflon seal rings included in the kit (should be green)....try not to bend or stretch the rings more than you have to


***TRICK***
once the teflon rings are in place, go inside and put a pot of water on the stove to boil...once the water is boiling, grab your stub shaft with the newly installed teflon rings and submerge the new rings in the water and hold them under for at least 3 minutes...then, take the shaft out of the water and set it aside to cool....once cooled, the teflon rings will shrink slightly and seat themselves better in the channels

now, back to the steering gear housing itself:

clean out the inside of the housing well with some degreaser and get all the old fluid and any debris out....rub clean with a rag, and pour in some power steering fluid...rub it around the walls of the cylinder (the section you pulled the rack piston from)...set up your cylinder hone to make light contact with the inside of the housing cylinder


run the hone up and down 10-15 times (just enought to break the glaze that has formed on the wall), then wipe out the housing and clean it again


this would also be a good time to paint the box itself if you want to protect it or make it look new, i didnt really care that much

crack another beer, you deserve it for getting this far!

now, with the stub shaft cooled form the boiling water, insert it all the way into the rack piston (you should just be able to slide it in without threading it)....MAKE SURE IT IS INSERTED ALL THE WAY TO THE END....now go play with your balls:


these balls!


pour a little steering fluid into the two holes where the ball guide was attached to, just to lube the inner runners for the balls...now, drop a ball into each of the holes and wiggle the entire shaft around inside the piston to get the balls to seat properly...do two more, wiggle the shaft, reapeat...


when no more balls can go into the holes, we focus on the guide itself...


grab both sides of the guide, clean them off, and grab a big finger full of grese...line the inner side of the guides well....now, grab the balls and lay them into the inner channel of one half of the guide....make sure all the remaining balls fit into the guide (if you have extra, they NEED to go into the rack piston!)....press the other half of the guide onto the balls, line the ends of the guide up to the holes, and reinstall the guide with both bolts.....the purpose of the grease is to keep the balls in place so they dont fall out before you can get it back together


now that all the seals on the piston and stub shaft are replaced, slather some steering fluid onto the outside surfaces of the entire assembly and slide the whole thing back into the box....you will be able to tell if everything is in right if you can see the ring where the big ass snap ring sat in...replace the snap ring and the retaining clip....finish your beer and grab one more, youre almost done!

look into the box at the piston....you should be able to see the teeth on the side of the piston completely....if the piston is rotated and you can only see the teeth partially, just rotate the stub shaft back and forth and turn the piston into place by hand (it should go easily)


now, turn the stub shaft all the way in or out (doesnt matter)...count the number of rotations it takes to get the piston to the other end, then divide by two....turn the stub shaft back out that number of times, and the piston is centered in its travel....

grab the output shaft, clean it up and pour some p/s fluid on it, and insert it back into the box, MAKE SURE THE GEARS MESH PROPERLY!!!!
you might need to tap on the cover with your mallet to drive it all the way in, go for it...




tighten the cover bolts back up, slowly fill the box with fluid(works well when forced in with a syringe) and boom, your DONE




adjustment of the off-center adjuster is best to do after it is installed on the truck, just leave the lock nut in place for now! go install a fresh steering box on your X!


here is the link to the photobucket album where all the pics are, there are some more detailed pictures for reference, etc.
http://s330.photobucket.com/albums/l408 ... ing%20box/


***EDIT***

the steering box will likely need adjusting after you install it. if the steering is sluggish when the wheels are straight and a few degrees off to either side, it needs to be adjusted ASAP. to adjust:

grab a 17MM box wrench and a set of allen keys

find an allen key to fit in the allen head adjuster, hold the allen key
loosen the lock nut on the top of the box, it is opposite threaded so to loosen it you turn it right
turn the allen key to the right (tighten) until tight
back off (loosen) 1/2 turn
tighten lock nut (turn to left)

get in the truck and drive it around thew block a few times and get a feel for the steering....if its still a bit sluggish, tighten the adjuster a little more (turn to the right), but dont tighten all the way....

also, the seals are still tight and the conditioner in the p/s fluid (as long as you got the right fluid) needs some time to work in....also, keep an eye on your fluid level to make sure there isnt a leak that you cant see

please let me know if you have any input or suggestions!

That's a great picturial how too man.. Thanks!!!

Great Write-up Brian.
Glad it worked out for ya.

edited to add adjusting procedures

Excellent write up and pictures. Looks like you did a great job of it.