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 Post subject: Performance Camshaft install not on vehicle (easy way)
PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:47 pm 
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The cams are installed in the cylinder heads.
I'll start tearing into the truck this weekend for the timing belt, etc..

Here are some pix of the install.
Extremely easy.
Image
The head minus the camshaft
Image
Unbolt the rocker arm assemblies first using 12mm socket
Image
Attach rubber bands to hold the lifters in place, then gentle pull upward on the lifter assembly.
It should just pop right out. If you didn't do a good job with the rubber bands, the lifters will fall out the bottom.
Image
Image
Using the moly grease included with the cams. Use the ENTIRE container on the cam on all of the lobes and bearings.
They give you two containers for molygrease, so no worries.

Carefully start putting the camshaft in the cylinder head making sure you don't nick the cam bearings in the process.
Image
As you install the cam, twist it a bit to make sure nothing binds or scratches.
Image
Once it's fully seated, I used the remaining grease on all of the lobes while rotating the cam by hand.
Since it doesn't have the lifters on yet, it rotates pretty easily.
Image
Install the lifter plate and lifters first, then remove the rubber bands.
Then install the rocker arm assemblies.
I just snugged them down for now.
I'll torque them down before they go into the truck.
There is a large bolt and washer on the back of the head, screwed into the camshaft.
Make sure you bolt it back on after you put the cam in fully.

After everything is torqued down, you have to do a camshaft endplay measurement.
That is done by using a Dial indicator attached to the front part of the cam.
Basically you need to take a screwdriver and pull on the cam to see if the endplay is adequate.
If it's too much then you'll chew up the timing gear on the case.
If it's too little (too tight) you'll chew up the new cam you just installed.
The spec for the endplay is 0.03 - 0.06 mm.
You'll have to add shims to adjust it if need be.


Here are some helpful links on your install..
http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?sho ... ntry253494
http://redz31.suomiz.net/pages/headwork.html#lifters
http://schneidercams.com/280H_VG30.aspx
http://www.maui.net/~mauitom/Xterra/xterra.html
http://overlandtrucks.com/phpBB/viewtop ... 7&start=30
http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a ... /m/6461004

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 5:16 am 
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Nice write up Ken.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 5:55 am 
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I agree with Scott... Can't wait to hear about your thoughts on that cam.. :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:09 am 
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Thanks.
I'll be tearing into the engine this weekend, hope everything goes smoothly with the timing belt/head gasket change.

Once it's back up and running I'll post up the review.
From what I've been reading (above links) a guy did the stage II cams in his 200k mile motor and said that the improvement was great on the upper end of the rpms.
He lost a little low end torque but the improvement at parkway speeds and gas mileage were well worth it.
With the stage III cams and new heads, hopefully it's even better. :D

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 11:00 am 
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Location: Clifton, N.J.
who did your cams? regrinds?

im looking for a place nearby than can do a good regrind for longer duration and a bit more lift on my mitsu engine

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 11:14 am 
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I ordered my cams through thezstore.com after sending them my cores. Only $180 shipped.

They are performance regrinds done by Schneider racing cams.
The Z store actually has cheaper prices than going directly through Schneider.

I'm sure you can call up Schneider and ask about your mitsu motor.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 3:58 pm 
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I was thinking when you install hotter cams you would loose lower end torque, but I guess that's not a problem at all since you have crawler gears, it won't matter at all.

Did you have shims just in case? If so, where did you get them? I have a heck of a time finding stuff like that up here.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 4:04 pm 
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daggerdoggie wrote:
I was thinking when you install hotter cams you would loose lower end torque, but I guess that's not a problem at all since you have crawler gears, it won't matter at all.

Did you have shims just in case? If so, where did you get them? I have a heck of a time finding stuff like that up here.


I really don't have a problem with the speed of my truck around town.
It's when I get onto the parkways 60mph+ is where it pretty much falls flat on its face with the 35's and 4.63 gearing.
5th gear turned into an overdrive for me. I'm usually in 4th gear on the parkways if they even start to go uphill slightly. :roll:

I don't have the shims since I'm not convinced I'll need them yet.
From what I've read, they are a special order thing from Japan.. :shock:
Since these are fresh cylinder heads and new cams to begin with, I'm banking on them falling right into spec. :D

I'm still going to check it before installing them in the truck anyway to play it safe.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 9:48 pm 
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so just $180?

i kinda want to do this

will the engine lobe now with such an aggressive cam? i actually wouldnt mind that... make it sound badass

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 9:51 pm 
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Well a previous member I knew had them and they didn't lobe. But he did say it felt great driving.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 7:47 am 
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These cams are supposed to give a rough idle which was why they weren't recommended for auto trannys.
These are the most radical cams you can fit without having to shim the valve springs to prevent valve float.
The clearance inside the head between the cam and the casting is really close with these surprisingly.

I'm having our fabricator check the endfloat on the cams tonight. Hopeftully it's good to go and I can install them without screwing with different cam thrust plate thicknesses.

Once it's running i'll post a review.
And I'll have two cores for regrinds if anyone else wants to get it done without tying up the truck.

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If stickers add horsepower then my X run's 9 second quarter miles...
http://www.picturetrail.com/O1SalsaX
I got "IT" on ebay.. Now it burns when I pee :(


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 10:29 am 
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Another note:
Nissan's ESM states that you should soak the lifters in oil overnight on their sides so and air pocket doesn't work its way inside them.

After speaking with Schneider Cams and The Z store about this, they both said that it was a "non issue". Just install them in the head, the split second that they are without oil isn't a problem at all.
If you are really paranoid (like myself) you can just pour some oil on the lifters after you have them in the truck, then push down hard on the top of each lifter to release the air.
Nissan has this in their ESM as well.

Either way, it should be totally fine.

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If stickers add horsepower then my X run's 9 second quarter miles...
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I got "IT" on ebay.. Now it burns when I pee :(


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:20 am 
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Huge thanks to Dan @ solofab for checking the camshaft end play at his shop.
We used a dial indicator and bolted it to the end of the cylinder head next to the bolt in the back of the cam. The dial indicator was zeroed out on the bolt.
On the driver side he was able to use the distributor gear on the cam to gently pry against to shift the cam forwards and backwards.

The cam fell within the specification in the ESM.

The passenger side was a little different since it lacked the distributor drive gear.
He was able to gently pry on one of the cam lobes against the rocker arm. It only shifted slightly, but fell within the allowable range.

So the cylinder heads and cams did not need a change of shims.
The Z store and Schneider Cams told me that it probably wouldn't need different shims but it was good practice to take the measurement anyway.

The heads are all set to be installed in the truck.
I'll post up pictures when I get to that point in the rebuild.

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If stickers add horsepower then my X run's 9 second quarter miles...
http://www.picturetrail.com/O1SalsaX
I got "IT" on ebay.. Now it burns when I pee :(


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:54 am 
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Post pictures and a video of what it sounds like when you get it running.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:56 am 
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daggerdoggie wrote:
Post pictures and a video of what it sounds like when you get it running.

Of course. :D

I'm a little hung up on two bolts on the intake that stripped so far. :roll:
Stupid 6mm allen bolts that rounded nicely.
Now I have to deal with a bolt-remover or try cutting a notch in it and using a large flat blade screwdriver or something.

Pain in the ass.

The whole front half of the motor came apart WAY too easily.
I knew it was going to catch up to be sooner or later. lol

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If stickers add horsepower then my X run's 9 second quarter miles...
http://www.picturetrail.com/O1SalsaX
I got "IT" on ebay.. Now it burns when I pee :(


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