just use the stub with the rusted on nut as a bolt. put that third up on those studs that stayed in the housing, then screw in the ones that came out.
easy.
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| Third Member Studs... https://www.nexterra.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=3778 |
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| Author: | spalind [ Fri Jun 19, 2009 8:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Third Member Studs... |
OK...upon removal of the third member all but two of the studs stayed in the rear axle housing. Two however unscrewed all the way out due to severe rust on the stud and nut. My question now is...without anything to put a wrench on, how do you get the stud all the way back into the rear axle housing before putting the nut and lockwasher on? As a point of reference for those who may not know what I am talking about, each of these studs is double threaded with one end screwing into the rear axle houseing and the other end passing through the third member and being bolted on with a nut and a lockwasher... |
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| Author: | granitestatedestroyer [ Sat Jun 20, 2009 2:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
just use the stub with the rusted on nut as a bolt. put that third up on those studs that stayed in the housing, then screw in the ones that came out. easy.
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| Author: | daggerdoggie [ Sat Jun 20, 2009 5:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You could do that and probably be fine, but I'm anal about mechanical parts and torquing them. Those two bolts may be rusted to the point of failure and if they're not holding their load you put more stress on the other. Also, check the rest of the studs for their condition and clean them all thoroughly so you can torque them accurately. You can buy new studs from Nissan or put two nuts on the end of stud where they came out of the differential and tighten them together and then, using two wrenches remove the nut that came off with the stud on the third member side. Again, clean all the threads well. Use Locktite 242 (Blue) and reinstall in the differential using the two nuts on the outer side so you can get them snug. |
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| Author: | Powerguy37 [ Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
What studs are you talking about here? I need to pull mine in the next week or two . My X is almost 10 years old and I'm thin king I should just buy new studs before I take it apart. I'm not sure what to buy though. is it listed in this diagram? 
Or this one? 
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| Author: | daggerdoggie [ Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:06 am ] |
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I can see why you're confused. I'm pretty sure Dan is correct, they are studs. The only part that looks close is 38300A, but by the drawing, it looks like a bolt. I'm not sure that's the right part number. |
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| Author: | Powerguy37 [ Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Scott, Looks like 11 of them so I'll just go ahead and order them all. |
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| Author: | spalind [ Sat Jun 20, 2009 3:46 pm ] |
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daggerdoggie wrote: I can see why you're confused. I'm pretty sure Dan is correct, they are studs. The only part that looks close is 38300A, but by the drawing, it looks like a bolt. I'm not sure that's the right part number yet is does look like 38300D is a nut.
Those are the correct parts...they are studs even though the pic makes them look like bolts... |
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| Author: | Powerguy37 [ Sun Jun 28, 2009 6:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well Dan 4 of mine came out as well.  How did you get yours threaded back in?
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| Author: | spalind [ Mon Jun 29, 2009 7:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Powerguy37 wrote: Well Dan 4 of mine came out as well.
How did you get yours threaded back in?Bought a "thread extractor" from NAPA (Autozone, Pepboys, etc. did not carry this tool) which you can see a pic of by doing a google search for the aforementioned. It is a little cam-type device with teeth that you attach to a 1/2" drive wrench that will grip the stud and allow you to "screw" it into the housing...it is more commonly used for removing studs (thus the "extractor" name) but works just as well for installing them, though you do need to try and be a little gentle with it so it doesn't damage the stud threads which you wouldn't care about it you were just looking to remove a stud... |
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