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 Post subject: H233B Axle removal help...
PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:00 pm 
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OK, so I am at the point in my rear diff replacement where I need to take the rear axles out about 4 inches so I can pull the 3rd member. I have the drums, pads, springs and such from the rear brakes off and the 4 nuts off of the backing plate. The Haynes manual and others say that I need to disconnect the hydraulic line that runs to the rear brake and the parking brake line/mount.

Q1: Do I NEED to disconnect the hydraulic line and parking brake mounting? What happens if I don't?

Q2: Do I need a slide hammer (as the Haynes manual states) to remove the rear axles or how should that process be done? I also didn't know if the attachment the Haynes manual says to use with the slide hammer was a standard one or if I needed to find a specific one.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:21 pm 
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No, you don't need to remove the brake line, at least I didn't. You don't have to pull it out that far to get out the third member. If the axle seals are bad. you will have to remove them, but I've had mine out twice and they don't leak or have I had water intrusion. A slide hammer is a simple tool, but you don't need one. You just need to break the seal. Mine just pulled right out, but a few taps on the axle flange should do the trick if they are stuck.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:37 pm 
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daggerdoggie wrote:
No, you don't need to remove the brake line, at least I didn't. You don't have to pull it out that far to get out the third member. If the axle seals are bad. you will have to remove them, but I've had mine out twice and they don't leak or have I had water intrusion. A slide hammer is a simple tool, but you don't need one. You just need to break the seal. Mine just pulled right out, but a few taps on the axle flange should do the trick if they are stuck.


Why do they say to disconnect the hydraulic brake line?? Both the Haynes manual and penski over on NOR are saying that I do? I don't understand why, the brake line is attached to the rear of the wheel mount, not to the axle...


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 6:24 pm 
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With the axle, comes the whole brake assembly, but there is plenty of stretch in the line to pull it out far enough to pull the differential. The axle assembly comes off as a unit, brake assembly and all, so if you were to pull the axle all the way out, you would have to remove the hydraulic lines. Also, if you replace the seal, which most manuals will tell you to do if you pull the axle, you would have to pull the axle all the way out to get in a new seal. If the axle seal is good, and you are careful, you won't need to replace it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 6:32 pm 
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daggerdoggie wrote:
With the axle, comes the whole brake assembly, but there is plenty of stretch in the line to pull it out far enough to pull the differential. The axle assembly comes off as a unit, brake assembly and all, so if you were to pull the axle all the way out, you would have to remove the hydraulic lines. Also, if you replace the seal, which most manuals will tell you to do if you pull the axle, you would have to pull the axle all the way out to get in a new seal. If the axle seal is good, and you are careful, you won't need to replace it.


OK...now I understand. Isn't that a horrid design? Don't most axles on other vehicles slip out in and of their own and not with the whole brake/hub assembly??

If I disconnect the hard hydraulic line to make it easier to pull, how can I cap it so all the fluid doesn't come out? Can I tap on the back of the brake/hub assembly with a mallet to break the seal and pull the axle out? Where is the location of the seal that they recommend replacing?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 6:57 pm 
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spalind wrote:
daggerdoggie wrote:
With the axle, comes the whole brake assembly, but there is plenty of stretch in the line to pull it out far enough to pull the differential. The axle assembly comes off as a unit, brake assembly and all, so if you were to pull the axle all the way out, you would have to remove the hydraulic lines. Also, if you replace the seal, which most manuals will tell you to do if you pull the axle, you would have to pull the axle all the way out to get in a new seal. If the axle seal is good, and you are careful, you won't need to replace it.


OK...now I understand. Isn't that a horrid design? Don't most axles on other vehicles slip out in and of their own and not with the whole brake/hub assembly??

If I disconnect the hard hydraulic line to make it easier to pull, how can I cap it so all the fluid doesn't come out? Can I tap on the back of the brake/hub assembly with a mallet to break the seal and pull the axle out? Where is the location of the seal that they recommend replacing?


It's a common design. Actually, fairly standard. Yes, just tap on the back of the brake/hub assembly and break the rust seal. The seal, a four dollar part, goes inside the the axle housing. The seal is much like the front bearing seal, but if you're careful, you won't need to replace it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 7:07 pm 
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daggerdoggie wrote:
spalind wrote:
daggerdoggie wrote:
With the axle, comes the whole brake assembly, but there is plenty of stretch in the line to pull it out far enough to pull the differential. The axle assembly comes off as a unit, brake assembly and all, so if you were to pull the axle all the way out, you would have to remove the hydraulic lines. Also, if you replace the seal, which most manuals will tell you to do if you pull the axle, you would have to pull the axle all the way out to get in a new seal. If the axle seal is good, and you are careful, you won't need to replace it.


OK...now I understand. Isn't that a horrid design? Don't most axles on other vehicles slip out in and of their own and not with the whole brake/hub assembly??

If I disconnect the hard hydraulic line to make it easier to pull, how can I cap it so all the fluid doesn't come out? Can I tap on the back of the brake/hub assembly with a mallet to break the seal and pull the axle out? Where is the location of the seal that they recommend replacing?


It's a common design. Actually, fairly standard. Yes, just tap on the back of the brake/hub assembly and break the rust seal. The seal, a four dollar part, goes inside the the axle housing. The seal is much like the front bearing seal, but if you're careful, you won't need to replace it.


After that, how easy is the third to come out? I have already taken all the nuts on the third off and it is drained and I can already fit a flathead screwdriver in between the diff housing and the third where they bolt together...


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 4:48 am 
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If the driveshaft is off, it will pull right out.


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