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 Post subject: Cam bolt, etc....
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:13 am 
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So I am swapping my Calmini UCA's for some AC's as they fit better with the current shock setup I have in front and won't require any grinding of the UCA's (which looks like a redneck crappy mod though it works just fine). Outside of some good sawzall blades to get the old cam bolts out (just cut off and bang the old ones out??) and some new cam bolts (anyone with a part #?) what else should I grab?? Any new bushings or such needed? Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 12:22 pm 
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I dont remember the part number of the cam bolts, but you can get them from and local nissan dealer. I got my through them and its only took a couple days to get in. The AC UCA should come with new bushings. just lube them up!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 2:00 pm 
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if you use a pickle for to pop the old ball joints off the spindle, you will probably destroy the old grease seals so you will need new ball joints. if you can salvage them from the old calmini uca,s they should be the same

the ball joints you need are for an old D21 pickup or pathfinder

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 2:09 pm 
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baf6 wrote:
if you use a pickle for to pop the old ball joints off the spindle, you will probably destroy the old grease seals so you will need new ball joints. if you can salvage them from the old calmini uca,s they should be the same

the ball joints you need are for an old D21 pickup or pathfinder


The UCA's came with ball joints and the ones I have with my Calmini uppers are still in good condition and pop off pretty easy...do I need any sleeves or anything for the cam bolts?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 5:29 pm 
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when you get the cam bolts, also get the eccentric washers and new nuts. the parts guy will know how to look them up. If not then they should probably be sweeping a oil change bay or something.


Your AC UCAs (if they were new?) will have the sleeves in the bushings already. other than that just dont cheap out on the sawzall blades... "the Torch" blades rip awesome, just use some kind of oil to cut with, chainsaw lube would work or gear oil. You should breeze through if you keep the blade cool.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:33 pm 
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Dan, like Mike said, make sure to get the washers and nuts with the bolts. I assumed that they would come as a set and had to scramble to get what was missing once I noticed that they were separate.

And, I would expect the sleeves in the bushings since all the sets that I've seen (including the ACs) had them in there.

As for the sawzall blades, get blunt end if you can (as opposed to a pointed end. It allows you to get more of the meat of the blade into the cutting action, while the pointed end sometimes bounce off the frame and kick you out of the notch

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:45 pm 
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Yeah, Mike's right on with the washers, nuts and blade setup.

When we did mine I used Metal cutting Demolition blades and it took 2 blades to get through all the bolts.

You may want to try undoing the bolts if you already have replace the Cam Bolts once. They may pop off.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:02 pm 
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Shmittey wrote:
"the Torch" blades rip awesome


+1,2,3,&4

just one those blades got me through one control arm's worth of bolts in less than 10 minutes...pack of 5 is only about 15 bucks too

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:45 pm 
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always torch blades, and cutting oil

otherwise you should be set

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 11:34 am 
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Finally picking up my 4 new bolts, 4 washers and 4 nuts tonight...then the swap gets done this weekend...as well as new low profile bumpstops...yeah!! No big change from what I have now but I love working on the damn thing....


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