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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 5:34 pm 
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Scott,

Is there any way you could email me the pics from this setup... I have under one year to either do this or try out the resistor workaround so I can pass inspection. The code is being thrown as soon as the ignition is turned on but before it turns over, I clear it and it is back with in hours.... I am guessing that it is toast. Thanks beer1

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:23 pm 
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shmittey, if i recall correctly, you have a body lift. with the body lift you should be able to get underneath the truck and reach up around the transmission on the passenger side, then finangle your hand underneath the intake manifold and disconnect the knock sensor right where it sits now. then there should be enough wire to relocate the sensor to wherever you want without the need for the maxima harness.

thats what i did

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 12:05 pm 
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bringing this thread back :-X

did anyone on the NA engines find a place to put it?

im kinda at a lose as to where i could relocate it too :(

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:34 pm 
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spalind wrote:
daggerdoggie wrote:
It will retard the spark to prevent engine knocking, so when you step on the gas, you won't have as much power. You won't have optimum performance and mileage could suffer as well, but I think that is overstated to some degree.


OK...understandable...what causes the constant throwing of a knock sensor code by 1st gen X's?



detonation usually. (when the a/f mixture combusts before its supposed to.)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:35 pm 
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fusionfronty99 wrote:
bringing this thread back :-X

did anyone on the NA engines find a place to put it?

im kinda at a lose as to where i could relocate it too :(



generally, i'd say see if you can get it off and back on where nissan had it, that'd be the best place.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 5:57 am 
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01xterraCJ wrote:
fusionfronty99 wrote:
bringing this thread back :-X

did anyone on the NA engines find a place to put it?

im kinda at a lose as to where i could relocate it too :(



generally, i'd say see if you can get it off and back on where nissan had it, that'd be the best place.


theres no way im tearing through half my engine to get to a 40 dollar part

also too, the motor has 60k on it, no where near the 105k timing belt replacement

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2009 11:14 am 
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

if you read the part on detonation you'll understand why i prefer to put knock sensors back where they were. if you have a good ear and can pinging, that you could probably mount it almost anywhere on the block.

with that said, i understand the reluctance to start taking parts off, but so long as your handy with tools, the n/a intake manifold should be pretty easy to take off. i'd say, 4-5 hours total if your just using hand tools with minimal experience.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 4:12 pm 
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Hello, First Thanks for this thread write up Im from the clubxterra site. I am getting ready to replace my sensor and relocate it on my SC like in the pics. What bolt size do I need to get? Im not sure if thats a few sizes to choose from or what but I dont want to not have the right bolt. Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 5:45 pm 
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As for bolt sizes, I can never remember...I have so many spare bolts that I just found one that works, but most of Nissan's are 1.25 mm fine thread.

Detonation is not necessarily the issue with the Nissan knock sensor. The design is faulty and the code is ubiquitous with Nissan's vehicles. After you've replaced it once in the stock location, you'll never do it again. It's not pinging that necessarily throws the code. The knock sensor is a pizzo-electric generator that needs to maintain around 2.5 volts to stay in range. As many codes are too low voltage as are too high (which may be caused by pre-detonation) P327 is the low-voltage code and P328 is a high-voltage code You just need a solid engine mount to maintain the voltage caused by vibration from the engine. There's no magic to the stock location except that's where the engineers decided to place it. I have had no problems since I relocated the sensor.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 6:53 pm 
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Thanks for the help dagger, youve saved me a lot of time and money. Ill be putting it in the same location on the sc...thanks again...


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:03 pm 
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I need some help...
I bought the knock sensor from auto anyhting for an xterra SC for 118 bucks
Mounted the sensor in the same location. I spliced into the two wires on the front side of the connector. The two wires are the bottom two all the way to the right hand side if youre looking at the connector. I cleared the code...it came back, so I switched the two wires ont he terminal, cleared and then came right back on. What am I missing?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 4:09 pm 
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LuxuryDetailer wrote:
I need some help...
I bought the knock sensor from auto anyhting for an xterra SC for 118 bucks
Mounted the sensor in the same location. I spliced into the two wires on the front side of the connector. The two wires are the bottom two all the way to the right hand side if youre looking at the connector. I cleared the code...it came back, so I switched the two wires ont he terminal, cleared and then came right back on. What am I missing?


$118? I think the part from Nissan was only $78.

The only thing I can think of is are you sure you have the right wires? Nissan is notorious for changing wire harness color codes even within a model year and it's not always reflected in the ECM. Also, in my picture, I had twisted the plug upside down for clarity to take the picture. Mine's a 2002, if that helps any.

If the code is coming up immediately, more than likely that means there is no voltage getting to ECU. Can you read the code? are you getting P327?

Another possibility is to be sure the knock sensor is well grounded. Clean the mounting area very well and try again. 2.5 volts won't arch over much dirt.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 5:33 pm 
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It comes up immediately...did you wire brush under where the knock sensor sits on the SC? I believe my code as p328? I ran it at a friends shop so I can check again. If you havent removed the green connector...then looking directly at it standing in front of the truck then it would be the bottom two wires on the drivers side of the truck...or your right hand side?? Hopefully I can figure this out...

Heres what I ordered:
http://www.autoanything.com/relays-sens ... 4294966725


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:32 am 
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I cleaned up the mount, Ill try to clear the codes again today


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:12 am 
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Dagger is there anyway you can confirm the wires you tapped into? your help would be very appreciated!


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