I don't have any after shots, because my camera's batteries decided to die on me...boo, but I do have some during shots!
Anyways, the shackles arrived today, ahead of schedule, from AC. They're 100x nicer than the Calmini ones, but not quite as nice as the SLR ones. A good set of quality shackles at the right price.
Right after we finished installing his CB (my old CB, actually), a real nice install, underneath the single-DIN aftermarket stereo in the dash, easily accessible, and the front panel mounted speaker makes it easy to hear, I got a phone call from the guy who was coming to buy my stock wheels. When I got back, CJ (the guy with the goofy look on his face in the following picture) was starting to unbolt the stock shackles.
Once we got the stock shackles unbolted, we used a sledge hammer to pound the bolts through the eyelets and a jack handle to put pressure on the leaf spring to allow the other half of the stock shackle to come out.
Once the stock shackles were out, we used the stock scissor jack to push the leaf spring down to a level where the new 2" lift shackles could be hooked up.
Here's a pic with both shackles in, notice the great difference between rear and front ride heights...
We then had to look up the procedure for cranking the Torsion Bars online. Thanks for the link, Anthony! It was exactly what we needed. It's actually very simple, but nobody at the house had actually done them before, so I figured it would be a good idea to just look them up to be safe.
Basically, the procedure involves:
1) Measuring the ride height of the Xterra at the same spot behind the front wheels on both sides and recording the values.
2) Jacking up the Xterra so the front wheels are just about to come off the ground. This will relieve the pressure on the torsion bars and allow you to crank them without a ridiculous amount of effort.
3) Loosening up the lock nuts on top of the torsion bar adjustment bolt.
4) Cranking the adjustment bolt clockwise, counting the number of turns you make. I found it pretty easy to count the turns using my 1/2" drive ratchet w/ the 19mm socket going in half-turn increments. The instructions on NOR say to use a box end wrench, but we couldn't fit the wrench we had in the groove far enough to turn the bolt enough to be able to accurately count the turns. Do the same number of turns on both sides. It's usually a good idea to start with 4 turns or so.
5) Lower the Xterra and measure the ride height at the same spot you measured before.
6) Jack the Xterra back up and crank the T-Bars until you've reached the desired ride height.
There's a picture of me cranking on the t-bar adjustment bolt, as it was getting towards the end of the required amount of turns, and it was getting tough to turn it!
If you're sitting on level ground, this is the ideal jacking point since it allows both wheels to be raised exactly the same amount and gives exactly the same feel through the ratchet as you're cranking on the adjustment bolt.
All in all, we got just over 2" of total lift out of the deal and spent all of $70. Took just over an hour. Shinji is happy with the result and we even tested it out in the "sand box", and it worked great.
Next step - ALIGNMENT!!