Anyone done this before? I have access to a joint press but I am not 100% on the removal and replacement process. I see you have to pull the retaining rings, then will the joints come out easy or do I have to press them out too? Any insight will be greatly appreciated.

You have to press them out, it's a pain in the ass. I've got the NAPA part # somewhere. Let me look.

I already ordered some Spicer 5-153X 1310 http://www.actionmachineinc.com/5-153xu-joint.aspx

I thought it was a good price.

I have looked around at some general how to... so I have to pull the whole drive shaft and do it on a table with a press? that sucks I will have to yet again pull my t-case skid... guess I am changing out that fluid early

Harbor freight has a press or you can hammer them out with a socket. Just be careful doing this when putting em back.

I will change mine this weekend also. I have yet to hear of anyone who has blown them.

The drive shaft is another thing like the LCA to Nissan; they want you to replace the whole thing instead of replacing parts. Yes, the U-joint part is Spicer 1310 or neapco 1-0154. I pulled the whole shaft and then hammered mine out with an old socket after removing the c-clips. Do yourself a favor and rent a press if you don?t have one ?cause that crap is no fun. Plus, like Andy says, you risk screwing up your new one trying to hammer it in. Good luck.

I have the spares but have been really worried about replacing them myself.
Now I'm more worried about them failing on the road like Jeff's and Brandon's.

I'm more concerned about the rear driveshaft than the front. Even though I know the front is shot.. Pretty bad vibrations when in 4high around 25mph.

My diff U joint blew out last Tuesday...

It wasn't too bad when mine went, it just happened in a shitty spot (the Mass Pike)

Good news is that the saftey loop wil prevent the driveshaft from hitting the ground and causing any rear end damage if the U-joint at the tranny goes...

but the one by the diff, that will probably mean replacing the driveshaft in addition to the u joint.

They are really quite easy. A press is great, but like Andy said, you can pound them out with a hammer and a socket the right size. That's the way I see mechanics do it all the time since it is faster. You don't have to pull the whole drive shaft, but really, it is easier to do so since the cups have to line up perfectly to put the new ones in and get the snap rings on.

Make sure you have new snap rings too.

There really is no reason to replace the drive shaft for new U joints. It's a common wear item and on most vehicles done relatively ofter. I'm not sure why every one complains about our non-geaseable U joints, they last longer than any of the serviceable ones I have owned.

That's true - unless your u-joint blows while on the road and the end of the drivshaft gets damaged as it bounces off the undercarriage and roadway.

Xcentrk's u-joint popped at the rear diff and destroyed the driveshaft, even with the safety loop in place.
He ended up having to replace the entire shaft since it was dented and bent.
That sucks.

I actually bought his greasable u-joints when he had to replace the entire shaft.
So I have the spares, just have to swap them in.
I kinda had to cut off my safety loop when installing the body lift. It just didn't cooperate. So off it came. LOL
Maybe I'll try replacing the rear u-joint tomorrow afternoon or saturday to play it safe.

Got them done... the slip yoke end was a breeze... but the pinion end was a bitch and a half. The clips were, of course, rusted to shit... so most of the time was spent chiseling out broken clips. Needless to say copious amounts of anti-seize were used on the new clips, hopefully it will last till the next swap out. This project also made me realize the importance of having an impact gun U-joint as it is not good to try and get the socket on the yoke bolts without one.

Glad you got it done.
I'll do mine soon, now that I know what I'm in for.

Did you use locktite on the bolts holding the driveshaft on?

And did you install the greasable ones with the zerk fittings (from AC)?

I did not get them from A/C... they are charging $20 for a $10 part... Spicer 1310, you can get them anywhere, Tom posted part numbers a few posts up. They are greaseable

Also get some fine emery cloth to lightly swirl up the outside of the slip yoke to keep the fluid from leaking past the seal.

sounds good.
I already have these u-joints that I bought off Xcentrk when he had to replace the driveshaft.
So I'll be using these.

Thanks for the info.