So I took the truck in today. They said it needs new pads and rotors front and back (they're blaming it on the E load tires), new alternator, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley. New upper control arms. And they want to investigate the cold air as a problem with the mode door.

$2,500. I told them to give me my damn truck back. It's going to Nissan tomorrow for a second opinion.

I usually get the Powerstop brake kit from Amazon for like $250-$300 and do them in my driveway. You may as well get some SPC upper control arms for $500ish. That’s a driveway job too.

Although I have never done them myself, I would attempt my own alternator and pulleys. ACDelco Tensioner/idler/belt kit from Rockauto is $84. ACDelco alternator is $160 after core on Rockauto. ACDelco isn’t my first choice, but it gives you an idea of the material cost.

Seems like $1000ish in parts. And a solid weekend of wrenching. I would research the parts further for better brands or more savings.

You believe Freetown did all that? Truck's got 51k miles

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I don’t believe it. Maybe you have terrible luck. Although, last run at GG, someone had water splash up into the engine compartment. It hit in just the right way to cool and break the studs for the exhaust manifold.

Sucks when it happens, but wheeling is always a roll of the dice. I’ve seen guys need to turn around at the landing, not even getting onto the trail, because something happened on the way onto the property.

If you buy any OEM parts, check out nissanpartsplus.com. It's a wholesale site run out of Mastria Nissan.

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Don’t forget to we get 5% at Rockauto.

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Will do

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Gonna need it!

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Update:

Westborough Nissan took a crack at it. They said the rear brakes are totally fine. The alternator is screaming so loud they can't say if any of the other pulleys are gone. Nor can they diagnose the squeak.

But I'm getting the new alternator, brake pads, and turned rotors installed for under 1k.

I'll take that as a win.

Would be much cheaper if you bought the parts of rock auto, and installed them yourself . Then you can use the money you would of spent for the repair for some mods for the X

IMO, unless the pads are completely shot and causing metal-to-metal contact with the rotor, then you don't need new rotors. Or, if the caliper has seized, allowing for rust build-up on the rotor. In my experience, rotors don't usually 'warp', and any pulsating in the brakes is usually caused by uneven pad deposits, which will go away when bedding-in (or re-bedding) the brakes.

Anyhow, as others have mentioned, get the pads & rotors and do it yourself - see if someone local will help you. Brakes are fairly simple to work on, but shops seem to feed on people's fear of brakes and charge crazy money for really straight-forward work.

Nissan of Westborough did right by me. They called bullshit on a lot of stuff from the local shop. Ended up with new front pads and resurfaced rotors. Plus a new alternator. When the weather is better, I'll flush the coolant.

They said the squeaking is coming from my body mounts. Oh well, guess I'll replace with a lift.

I don't know about squeaking from the body mounts. Did they torque them for you, if they're supposedly squeaking? The squeaking you described sounds like the hood latch.

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Its raining ice so nothing is squeaking right now. I'll check the latch when it dries out.

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Try putting a little silicone or teflon lubricant on the two adjustable ‘pads’ that the front of the hood contacts when closed - those squeaked on my X and drove me nuts. Mud/dust/debris would compound the squeaking