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 Post subject: T-Bars
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 6:52 pm 
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Alright guys, got a question for you.

In the spring time I'll be doing my PML, and I'm including new torsion bars and 3" lift shocks. Some of you may have seen the pics in my thread on clubx, just to be sure I've included them below.

I'm not too worried about doing my front shocks, the studs/nuts are rusted bad but I'll just cut 'em out if need be. My torsion bars have me a little worried though. My torque arms are rusted pretty badly, and I think they have become one with my torsion bars.

What are the chances of the rust welds breaking free on their own if I spray them daily with PB Blaster from now until "go time" (at least 2 months from now)? Any chance that the act of "de-tensioning" the torsion bars would also break the rust welds free? Or should I fork over the $110+S&H for new torque arms? If I do that, I might as well get new bolts...but what about Lower Arm spindles?

I think when the time comes for me to tackle this, I may also be looking for anybody near-enough to me that can/wants to lend a hand, so I'll go ahead and ask that as well...anybody close to Western Massachusetts that could offer their services? Just let me know what kind of beer you drink, cigs you smoke or pizza you eat... ;)

Alright, on to the pics:

Possible parts to purchase:
Image

Left torque arm/torsion bar:
Image

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 8:41 pm 
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I think if you use PB Blaster for a week or two you might be able to get those off...

I dont remember exactly because it has been a while since i upgraded mine but i dont think you need to take off those. I believe you can just loosen the other end to take the tension off the T-Bars and then they slide out (toward the rear of the truck) and you keep the front anchors on the lower control arms. But it is up to you if you want to change those out since they look really rusted.

Hope that helps.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:39 pm 
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Thanks man. That's what I was thinking, I've been going over the procedure in the FSM and some threads on CX and here. I'm not so concerned with the rust on the torque arms (from a strength standpoint), I'm just worried that they're heavily rust-welded to the torsion bars and won't release.

I plan on getting some POR 15 or maybe trying some of those "rust converter" spray paints to deal with the rust.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:46 pm 
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Romeo, what kind of T-bars did you go with? I went with the ones from AC; which turned out to be Sway Aways.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 11:44 pm 
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My T-bars came as part of a suspension package from SLR a long time ago... but i think they are either AC or Nismo but i think they might be both the same.

They might have sent you the wrong ones if they sent sway away's. I know my Tbars are painted Red so the ones at AC might not be them but they sound like the same with the description...

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/xterra- ... p-101.html

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:25 am 
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Alot of times the problem isn't getting the nuts off of the truck, it's actually getting the anchors off (54080 & 54210/54211) of the t-bars themselves..

Also if I'm not mistaken I believe the two front bolts on the anchors are welded on to the arm itself. But constantly hitting it with PB blast from now till your ready to do it will help greatly.

Also if your going to do it in the spring time when it's warmer then plan a mod day and others will come and help.. ;)

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:26 am 
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RIXterra wrote:
Alot of times the problem isn't getting the nuts off of the truck, it's actually getting the anchors off (54080 & 54210/54211) of the t-bars themselves..


X2
my Tbars wouldn't come out of the anchors so they were cut the Tbars & used a vise & a punch to get them out....

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 10:19 am 
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Thanks for all the info guys, keep it coming!

RIXterra and Trailz, that's exactly the scenario I'm expecting - for the torque arms and/or anchors to not release the torsion bars.

What about heating up the t-bars with a propane torch? I assume in this case that's a bad thing to do, seeing as the t-bars are the springs, and the heat may cause them to lose some of their spring. I plan on keeping the stockers for spares; but if heat means getting them out then I can live without spares.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 3:02 pm 
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You very well may have to heat them. I've had to several times.

It's best if you can get them off, then heat the anchors themselves. You'll need to get them cherry red, and then pound them off. It will take a while with a propane torch. If you can get a Mapp gas torch for about $30 that's even better.

You don't want to heat the torsion bars, you are trying to expand the anchors so heat around where they attach.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 3:59 pm 
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Like RIX said, if you want to set up a mod-day come spring, you get a few of us to help you out and get everything done in a day.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:14 pm 
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I'm considering a mod day for sure, when it's closer to go time I'll probably look into setting something up.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:24 pm 
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KChurch86 wrote:
I'm considering a mod day for sure, when it's closer to go time I'll probably look into setting something up.


Let me know... we can set up at my place

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 6:14 pm 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Svendog "Let me know... we can set up at my place"


Yeah?

That would be awesome Mike! Thank you!

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