Ok here is my quandary

So I just finished my armor ! Totally sick! Just added my timbres bump stops - very cool

Now come my Schrock slider - I am going to go with the dimpled version however if I want to do a body lift there is a different version to order. Now I hear a lot of bad things about body lift and you are better off saving your money for nice suspension lift which I intended to do PRG 3" suspension lift in th Spring/Summer 2017 so I can move up to 33" tires , I don't want to go too high so I guess my question does this sound reasonable or not?

I wants to get sliders before I took on the trails to be safe but maybe that not the best idea? Thoguhts

No poetry today

Bear aka - Michael

I went suspension lift. 33" require grinding and fender work anyway. Maybe less with a BL, but you will be doing it. I stayed with 32" MTRs and had so do some slamming too. Hell, in for a penny, in for a pound.


(Sent from Willoughby)

IMHO there is nothing bad about a 2” body lift unless you’re SASing your truck (in which case you can just take it out). They are relatively inexpensive and not hard to put in. You might be able to fit 33’s with just the 2” BL if you want, I'm not sure. If you add an IFS PRG suspension lift later on I doubt you’ll find the ride “too high”, but again, you can just take it out if you don’t like it. Just save the OEM pucks and hardware. IMHO the 3” BL is a PITA and the extra inch is not worth the extra work or cost.


I’d get sliders before I took it on the trails.

Thanks guys once again good info from the members

Michael,

Don't let Fiachra scare you, he's wheeling a Gen1 04 not a Gen2 Pro-4X, you won't have to do any fender modification for 33s on stock rims. All bets are off if you go with non stock rims or spacers. imho: Body lifts, look cool but don't do much of anything for you. The tire/fender interference point with our Gen 2's is right behind the tire, when turning. Raising the body up off the frame doesn't add additional clearance to that area. You may require the "Melt Mod" which uses heat to soften and then mold the plastic fender liner bulge in line with the tire. URL"The New X" web site has a good write-up, or at least lots of info. I personally went with skinny 33's that cleared nicely and have been very happy (255-85-16 Vs 285-75-16). Lots more of the guys (& Michelle) run the 285's.

Back to the body lift, since the diffs, suspension and skids are attached to the frame they don't "lift up" for additional clearance. The only clearance benefit is that the rocker panels are raised and you can use higher sliders which I'm whacking all the time but the sliders handle the abuse nicely. For real clearance gain only larger OD tires lift the diff.s. Suspension lifts raise the elevation the frame sits at, providing additional ground clearance to most of the non-axle related points including rockers sliders & skids.

When your looking at the PRG lift packages as a salt belt Daily Driver go with sealed UCAs (SPCs). Larger clearance aftermarket UCAs are required for suspension lifts of over 2", and if you can afford them, go with them at 2". The open heim joint style won't last long up here in the salt. And when your putting the package together make sure someone knowledgeable is working with you to properly limit shock travel to prevent blowing out your new expensive shocks or binding up your CV axles.

Best,
Scott

Thanks Scott. I only think 1st Generation. My bad.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No problem Fiachra, that's why I really appreciate it when guys like yourself have their rig information in their signature. Michael hint, hint.

Scott

Thanks so much guys have a lot of research to do and things to learn hoping to see you guys on the trails soon so I can see how you guys are set up and pick your brains - I, very green to this stuff but learning fast

Scott thanks for signature hint