Build sheet:

2000 Nissan xterra 5-spd

engine - 3.3L with TB spacer with modifed volant, and Nismo exhaust

Front suspension
tri-4link
lowers 2' OD .25 wall DOM with Ballistic fab joints
uppers 1.75'OD with 0.188 wall DOM with Ballistic Fab joints

Rear: Bandit4x4 Leaf packs with Dever obit eyelets, SLR 2" Shackles and Spring over kit

Shocks Fronts Bilstein 17" 9100 Rockcrawlers with Remote res. and PAC springs 1 18" and 1 16" 3.00

Rear Shocks Bilstein 11" 5125

Front Axle; '78 F-250 HP Dana 44 with DANA SVL 5.13 Gears, ARB, RCV Axle Shafts, PARTS Mike HI-steer arms, Flat top Knuckles, Trail Gear 4130 D44 pinion flange, Blue Torch FAB Axle Truss with integrated Diff Cover, Inner C's- Turned and burned

Steering: Trail Gear Full Hydro double ended ram with HI-press pump

Front Drive Shaft, custom 2 piece slip with flanged 1350 at T-Case and yota flange at pinion

T-case, NISSAN Tx-10 Rock Hopper 4:1 gears, Rugged rocks Front flange 1350/1310


Rear drive shaft; custom with SYE

Rear Axle; Nissan H233b with ARB and NISSO 5.13 Gears

Rims; American Racing 16.5" x 10"

Tires; 37" Goodyear MT Hummer 37x12.50x16.5R - and they are balanced. Suspension built around 40's but gotta get her going first.

Looking good, Dave!

You think we'll see this rolling next week in PA?

Wow, thats an awesome setup!

wow! cant wait to see this monster!

Hell. Yes.

Amazing how an afternoon of wire wheel and good caliper paint makes old look new


Rotors are new



Checking fender clearance.




A bit of trimming completed





I never used those fog lights


Approach angle?

Looking Great
Nice work

front suspension; tri-4 linked sas 2000 5 spd travel numbers: 5.5" bump & 10" droop.

Front Driveshaft has a DC-1330 CV at Tcase with a yota flanged 1310 at front DIFF getting about 23.5 deg on the shaft + the flange angle = binding in the DC ball/socket and still have 5" more of droop before limit straps pick up. The shocks bottoming another 1" past that....(insurance to protect 17" bilsteins)


Anyone ever tilt their drive line up to reduce the 4.25 deg up angle on the front t-case output flange to gain a few deg's back therefore reducing Driveshaft composite angle?

and or what is the resultant flange angle with an atlas installed?? or did you clock the case?



to accomplish this I am planning to add a spacer under the transmission mount. 2" BL so no concers about hitting anything. also should only be a bout a 1/4"



other option is running a third limit strap above diff and let the axle teater about the center protecting the drive shaft...

thoughts?

Man I'd limit the droop before messing with tilting or clocking. I'm surprised that you moving the front axle forward didn't take care of that binding.
My opinion is to limit at the center. Run it and see how it goes. Even if you do this the wheels will still drop far on each side. 10" bro? You're just being greedy.


Sent from 718 using Tapatalk...

English please

about suspension travel ... YES Yes I am greedy....

I'm gonna tilt it and get 1/2 of the lost droop... and add in a tab for a center limit strap..

long term will be a Clocked Atlas....

main focus get it out of garage and on trail... maximize the travel during fine tuning...

OK, please pardon my ignorance.

1) Are you talking about changing the angle of the engine/transmission/TCase combination?
They are, if I understand correctly, all mated together and one cannot be “tilted” without tilting everything else. No?

2) I have heard of “clocking” a rear axle but not a front (because of caster issues) and never heard of “clocking” the case. Is what you mean the same as when you say “tilt” or is it a term for something else? If so please elaborate.

3) If you “tilt” the TC won’t that cause problems for the rear driveshaft and the angles it needs to operate properly?

4) Lastly do you think that maybe using a shorter in length conventional 2 joint (single cardan) on the front drive shaft could lessen the angle slightly…enough to eliminate the need for a double cardan and the binding?

Ignorance allowed... (pic is an old school reference from xterrafirma days.



A1 Yes, tilting the tcase up will tilt EVERYTHING Else too...




A2 the clocking i was refereing too is of the T-case... the Atlas trasfer case has circular bolt pattern so that it can be mounted at various "clock" positions centered about the transmisison input and rear output shafts.... with only the front flange moving around them....





for the front axle that is commonly called a "cut and turn"... where the inner C's welds to the axle tube are ground off. the C is then rotated about the



it could but there are plans a foot to mitigate that... and since the rear flexes less than the front.. it can be handled...



lenght is calculated from the distance between the two mating surfaces at ride height,, t-case flange and the pinion companion flange... and the slip from same measurement at full bump and max droop. in my case the slip is only 2.5" and minimal angular change in the pinion angle. (8.7 - 13.5 deg)

a shorter shaft with the same suspension travel will create a MORE extreme angle...

Yes, a single U-joint DS can get a bit more angle, 1310 Toyota especially.

My t-case output and dif pinion are slightly offset (3/4") so that is not an option... (Running a 1979 F-250 HP D44 at full width) and with 5.13, Crawler gears, and 37-40" tires, that is near the limit of 1310, which one can get a bit more angle out of... running the 1330 is for a bit of insurance at the t-case end so the "fuse" is down at the diff flange and an easier trail fix. and the limit straps protect everything too...