Thought I’d run this by you guys (& gals) for a sanity check. I’ve been trying to make sense of all the different suspension lifts to figure out what would be best for me. If you’ve got a second please read through this and see if I’m making sense.

I’m presently fully armored, skid, sliders and bumpers w/ winch. My springs have been upgraded so I’m riding at just over stock height with the stock Bils. For those who want real numbers running my 265/75/16s I’m 3/8” high in the front and ¼” high in the rear when compared to the FSM wheelarch heights. This has provided me with essentially the full stock travel range and droop for both front and rear and she rides nice.

Proposed front mod. – add a 2” lift top spacer and SPC UCAs. I believe this will continue to allow the full travel and droop range of the stock rig. I have camber bolts that need to be installed. I don’t know if anything is required with the front sway bar. I want to keep both sway bars because I tow and I drive a bit harder than most.

The rear mod. – Adjustable shackles, 5100 Bils for 2” – 2.5” lift, wedges for alignment and a sway bar relocation package. With the Bils being specified so tightly for lift range I assume I’ll be centered nicely in their travel range.

So other than bigger tires (and I want those too), am I missing anything? Do I need to mess with bump stops to keep from damaging anything? Brake lines? Locker wires?

Scott

The front.

I ran a 2" lift spacer on OEM Bils without the need for aftermarket UCAs because those Bils are not extended travel you should be fine with just a low profile bumpstop. But by all means the SPCs are a big upgrade for Caster and CB clearance. Brake lines and ABS were fine at full droop.

Cam bolts are a pain, good luck. Prepare to cut them out. What year is your X?

The Rear.

I've had the adjustable Nisstec Shackle on the highest setting and sway bar relocation bracket was not needed. As for the shocks I found the Frontier OEM Bils to work fine with that lift, because they have the simular travel numbers and can be found very cheap off their forum. I did not need shims but other report differently.

Why not add a leafs instead of a shackle? Much better for towing too, because it increases haul capacity.



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You are on the right track. A spacer/shackle lift with new rear shocks and uca's will be fine. With that lift your lines will all be good,you may get some clunking from the front end links on your sway bar but not much,maybe change the front sway bar bushing if your in there. Get the can bolts installed and 3 degree shim for the rear,but you may not even need it. Do not get cast shims,they will eventually break apart. Any questions let me know. I've gone through many different suspension set ups.

C3P0,

She's an 11 coming up on 4 years on Dec 1 with only 25,3XX on her. So far everything has come apart nicely. I am running OME leafs and like the level of firmness. Getting my hands on the OME heavy duty leaf sounds like it can be a royal pain and I'm not sure it alone will add the desired 2" additional lift. The frontier shocks are an interesting idea, If I didn't plan on hanging on to her 6 - 8 more years I'd go that route. On the front, without the UCA you can't get the full droop normally limited by the stock Bils. Do you know how much you lost? If it's only 1/4" I may save $400. Thanks for the input.

Tony,

I did see some of your posts on TNX and they helped me get a handle on a lot of what was previously a mystery to me. And thanks for the "on right track" it's been a pain w/ spacers inside, on top, adjustable coil overs, etc.... Coil bucket contact Vs. lost droop.

It's good news on the lines & thank you for the wedge tip - Fab not cast!

Thanks guys!

ps: My buddy Jeff, with the Rubicon, is trying to talk me into the Holloween night run, so there's a good chance I'll see you up there.

One thing also, with that extra weight up front you will start to sag and will need new springs or coilovers etc. In time. The extra leaf in the back you can find,but will not give you 2", more like 1.Get the top mount spacers also. Ohh, my x was 2 years old and I had 2 seized bolts in my lca's and had to cut them off.that was not fun.

Tony,

I am already running OME 607s, they've been on for 3 years now which is why with all that weight I'm sitting 3/8"+ high in the front. They were a great addition.

"Ohh, my x was 2 years old and I had 2 seized bolts in my lca's and had to cut them off.that was not fun."

I wonder if I can buy PB Blaster by the case?

Thanks
Scott

Ahh,makes sense. I'd start spraying them now and see if they all break free,at least you'll know.

Go to the Halloween run also,it will be a fun time.

You guys will like Gremlin Graveyard. You should come.


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Nisstec lists their wedges as a zinc alloy which screams cast pot metal. Who carries fabricated steel shims? And is there a typical angle for a 2"-2.5" lift? Sounds like a wait and see on the purchase, since I won't have to disassemble the leaves from the axle other than to install wedges.

Scott

Yes,don't buy those. Give them a call they may have some,they had steel ones before. If not,prg has aluminum ones that would work. You could wait and see after shackle install, you are right may not need them.

Do not buy those zinc alloy ones! I had bad luck with those.

I didn't need shims with shackles. I actually do not run shims with my shackles + AAL either but there is a slight vibration at 30. With shims and my 3" lift I ran into other shim issues so they are gone. So, yes, they are a good wait and see add-on and they aren't too bad to install.

Thanks guys!

UPDATE

With lots of prodding over the cubical wall, I dropped the hammer on the lift. Nisstec is still taking the 10% off coupon and the UCA paired with the spacers are another $40 off. So pricing wasn't going to get any better!

Doubt it will be installed by Nov 8 but you never know.

Scott

Nice,install should be fairly straightforward. Use a bottle jack to push down your leafpack to install shackles and then use it to line everything up. I didn't cut the bolt for drivers side UCA as others do,just disconnected the steering shaft.

Thanks Tony,

Of course you say nice now, but just wait until you hear how much that tow hook just went up to help pay for the lift. I think it's in the neighborhood of a factor of 5 or 10!

Realizing this is over the internet - you are good at multiplying by Zero right?

Scott

Odd instruction, I never did anything well with a bottle of Jack.