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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:16 pm 
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That's what happens when u play :lol:.......u know its a part of wheeling...brake fix repeat

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:48 pm 
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hahah guess what im replacing again ...

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:49 pm 
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A little off topic. Bklyn.X were you in Edison, NJ last week? i saw a X like your there.


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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:22 pm 
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firedawg225 wrote:
A little off topic. Bklyn.X were you in Edison, NJ last week? i saw a X like your there.

Last week, no, I was around there on the 30th of Dec. but not since.
MAD X wrote:
holy damn what happen?!

After discussing this with a friend that has experienced the same failure I believe that it was caused by a combination of things.
1. The front locker putting a bit more torque on all the parts involved.
2. The SLR “Differential Drop Kit” I instilled when my diff. was out getting the locker put in. Here is a picture of my "Diff. Mounting Member" with the diff. still attached and the stock bushings; Image

The SLR bushings have the mounting bolt go through on one side (dropping the entire member down) while the stock one has the bolt go through the middle. The SLR bushing is also stiffer. This combination IMHO does not let the part that failed flex as much as it could with OEM bushings. This would IMHO put more stress on the part exactly where it failed. I sell dog food and cat litter to pay the bills and my friend (an engineer who knows way more than I ever will) does not agree with this theory of mine but I think it has some merit. Take it with a grain of salt…
3. Lastly the type of wheeling I do is very hard on the truck. Most of the trails that are challenging to me are rocky. Because of my lack of any real skill there will be a few times each trip that rather than easing of an obstacle as preferred I’ll make a mistake and slam down on it. As entertaining as this is to spectators it is bone jarring and not good for any of the part of the truck. As Misha says “That's what happens when u play”…

None of this is gospel but it is as far as my limited thinking takes me. What do you think?

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 2:03 pm 
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Very nice Sir. They will hook up good the rocks.

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 4:48 pm 
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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 6:51 pm 
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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 10:47 pm 
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Haven’t been to this thread in a while so I thought I’d tell ya a story…

Due to my bad driving habits and poor judgment when picking spotters the rear Shrock bumper/tire carrier on the truck was hurting and needed a bit of love...
It rattled and was almost bouncing into the rear hatch. I tried putting a wrench on the 1” hinge bolt to tighten it but it will not move. The "One hand operating latch" no longer closed tight and the spring broke. The spring I found that fits is too light and will not pull the handle.

I emailed Mark from Shrockworks, he sold me a new latch, bearing, washers, 1” bolt w/locknut. He also gave me a tool to polish the new bushing out after it got pressed in.

I bought a 36mm socket thinking of putting a breaker bar with a length of pipe on it. The Brooklyn Crew and I broke two breaker bars trying to get the nut off the bolt (one was a craftsman that Justin got replaced for me, thanks Jus). We decided to cut the top of the bolt and bang it out with a BFH. It did not move and we ended up just flattening the top of the bolt. I decided to leave it like that until after the NER15 since it was holding and I didn’t want to drive the truck with it hanging on unsafely. I also did not want to wheel without the spare on the bumper if we could not get it back together.

After the run Justin and I took a drive down to Bandit4x4 so Dave could help. We cut more of the top of the bolt off and tried again to hit it with a length of steel and a BFH. It would not move and instead started pushing out the lower ear mounting bracket…not good.

We realized that the bolt was seized to the bushing and that the swing arm was swinging by the bushing rotating within the arm rather that the bolt rotating within the bushing.

We then cut the nut off the bottom off the bolt and were able to separate the swing arm from the bumper.

We put the arm in Dave’s 20 ton press and were able to separate the bushing/bolt from the arm.

Old and new;

Image

Misha had suggested that it would be good to put a grease fitting in there to keep that bolt from seizing again (good call Misha) so Dave cut a couple of holes in the bushing and I drilled a hole in the arm. We tapped the hole to accept the zerk Dave had and pressed the bushing it into the swing arm. I polished the bushing to accept the bolt snugly and we got the arm back on the bumper. Put the zerk in, greased dat bitch, changed the latch, put the spare and hilift back on. Good as new yo with no shake.


Image

Could not have figured all this crap out or got it done without my Brooklyn Crew Boys including Dave from Bandit4x4.

Thank you gentleman.

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 11:07 am 
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A little update for those interested…I’ve switched out the OEM head unit to a Kenwood DDX371 Head Unit with back up camera. It’s nothing that fancy, I haven’t hooked up the SiriusXM however if this old timer knew what kind of difference the head unit would make to my listening pleasure I would have done it years ago. But you youngsters already know that…

Let me say a quick word about Crutchfield; I will never buy audio for a vehicle from anyone else…ever. Their customer service is the best I’ve ever experienced anywhere for anything.

I also installed a second battery in the back of the truck using a Optima Blue Top and a Stinger SGP32 Isolator. It works great so far but I’m embarrassed of my wiring and need to clean it up before I share any more details or pictures with you.

That’s it for now, thank you for your interest. Hope to see you on the trails soon!

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 11:09 am 
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Bklyn.X wrote:
Let me say a quick word about Crutchfield; I will never buy audio for a vehicle from anyone else…ever. Their customer service is the best I’ve ever experienced anywhere for anything.


I like them and feel the same way.


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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:48 pm 
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Where and how did you mount the camera, Tom?

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 Post subject: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 12:43 pm 
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Image

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:22 pm 
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Cool. Do you plan on using this more when wheeling?

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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 8:02 pm 
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Not really, it helps when parking in NYC.


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 Post subject: Re: Bklyn.X
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:11 pm 
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I haven’t visited this thread in a while so let me tell a story that might interest the one or two folks that follow it.

As some of you know I was wheeling at Old Florida Road in MA last month with a few folks from NEXterra.

Image

I realized that my rear ARB locker was not able to engage. I could hear air slowly escaping inside the diff. A friend who had heard this sound in the past on other trucks determined that I had blown the two “seal housing O-rings” and that they would need to be replaced. I call ARB and ordered new seals.

Last week my friend Dave from Bandit4X4 offered to help change them out.

After taking the diff with the locker out of the truck (not the easiest of tasks) and getting it on Dave’s bench we realized that the O-ring was not the problem. It was the copper airline that runs air into the seal housing assembly;

Image

Yo, it’s broke!

Lucky I have a friend who just happened to have an extra seal housing assembly that fit my locker!
Not only that but not realizing that the RD135 locker that is made for my 2001 is a replacement for the RD24 that I put in my truck back in 2007 I did not make that distinction when I ordered the new seals. The two O-rings are not the same and the new does not replace the old. RD135 part is 160207, RD24 is 160208. So the O-rings I had did not fit.

Dave had spares of those as well!

Image

Un-fucking real! We would have had to put my junk heap back together so I could get back to Brooklyn. Then wait for parts from ARB and then do the crap all over again.

Thank you Dave!

Dave has theorized that powering my lockers the way I do with co2 could have caused the problem. That the blasts of cold co2 (when co2 is released and expands it gets cold) through a thin copper line that’s sitting in hot gear oil might cause fatigue. The things lasted 8 years and it’s hard for me to believe that the very small amount of gas that actually makes it to that tube could be an issue but what do I know? I must admit, very little…

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