It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 4:14 am




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 14 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Bandit 4X4 Calmini Idler Arm Bushings
PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 12:15 pm 
Offline
Supporting Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 4:42 pm
Posts: 5700
Location: Oneonta, NY
Thanks to Dave of Bandit 4x4, those of us with Calmini Steering Systems have an option for replacing those bushings which wear so quickly.

He has made an set of bronze bushings made from higher-quality material than Calmini's and they include a spiral lube grove so you can get some grease in there. Those of you who have this steering know that it is next to impossible to get any grease into that Zerk fitting.

They are well-machined and clean. Since my spare idler arm was the prototype, I didn't have to install them into the arm. Thanks Dave, but I am sure it is easy, very easy since I have a press, but it not, they can be pounded in with a block of wood and a hammer. I will let you know since I got three sets and will install a set in the one I took off today and put that on the yellow truck.

Thanks again, Dave, for supporting the sport.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Bandit 4X4 Calmini Idler Arm Bushings
PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 12:19 pm 
Offline
Supporting Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 4:42 pm
Posts: 5700
Location: Oneonta, NY
Nicely machined bushings:

Image

I took the old idler arm apart. The last one I took apart basically fell into pieces. This one I had a difficult time, even with a press, even though there was a lot of slop in it.

Here's what it looks like so far:

Image

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 4:05 pm 
Offline
Supporting Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 4:42 pm
Posts: 5700
Location: Oneonta, NY
I rebuilt the idler arm and installed it. Good thing, the one on the truck was looser than a ...

Pressing in the steel busing into Dave's bronze bushings:
Image

Image

Installing the bolt. You really didn't need to see this picture, but I did want to show off my new ratchet. :mrgreen:
Image

Done:
Image

Installed:
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:31 am 
Offline
Supporting Member
User avatar

Joined: Sun May 07, 2006 7:47 pm
Posts: 3960
Location: Suffield, CT
it's a thing of beauty

_________________
Modified X...
If I can't make it the first time, I'm going to try it again.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:42 am 
Offline
Forum User
User avatar

Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 9:44 pm
Posts: 1333
Location: York, PA (Formerly Long Island, NY)
Nice write up Scott.
Should be bulletproof now. Bandit bushings rock!

_________________
If stickers add horsepower then my X run's 9 second quarter miles...
http://www.picturetrail.com/O1SalsaX
I got "IT" on ebay.. Now it burns when I pee :(


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Bandit 4X4 Calmini Idler Arm Bushings
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 6:38 am 
Offline
Supporting Vendor
User avatar

Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2005 8:01 am
Posts: 191
Location: Union City, NJ
Scott,

Thank you for the nice comments and the patience while I worked these out. First batch was machined improperly and took some negotiating to have the production house make good.


- Dave
BanDiT4x4 L.L.C.

"a family company"
:lol:

_________________
BanDiT4x4, LLC


INSTAGRAM #bandit4x4



BDT Facebook Page


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:11 pm 
Offline
Noob

Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:53 am
Posts: 4
Can anyone answer me this,

Why do the original Calmini bushings and even these bushings appear not have any relief cuts for Grease to push through. How do you know if you have filled it with grease if there is nowhere for the grease to go. With it being pressed into the arm and the steel bushing being pressed into them you would need to have relief to get the air out and the grease into it.

The reason I ask is: when I first got my idler arm it would not take any grease, I figured it was because it was pregreased (it came fully assembled). after a couple of months I tried again to grease it same result, I then called calmini. The said I installed it incorrectly. I told them it was preinstalled when I got it. They then said it was normal. I said WTF.
So no surprise after 2 years that my bushings are thrashed.


ANY insight on this would be Great..

Thanks

Mark


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 4:24 pm 
Offline
Supporting Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 4:42 pm
Posts: 5700
Location: Oneonta, NY
msavides wrote:
Can anyone answer me this,

Why do the original Calmini bushings and even these bushings appear not have any relief cuts for Grease to push through. How do you know if you have filled it with grease if there is nowhere for the grease to go. With it being pressed into the arm and the steel bushing being pressed into them you would need to have relief to get the air out and the grease into it.


If you look closely at this picture, Dave's bushings do have grease channels:

Image

Fairly deep ones at that to hold plenty of grease. The problem has been addressed.

msavides wrote:
The reason I ask is: when I first got my idler arm it would not take any grease, I figured it was because it was pregreased (it came fully assembled). after a couple of months I tried again to grease it same result, I then called calmini. The said I installed it incorrectly. I told them it was preinstalled when I got it. They then said it was normal. I said WTF.
So no surprise after 2 years that my bushings are thrashed.


ANY insight on this would be Great..

Thanks

Mark


Two years out of the originals would be great. It's a wear item and I would love to get two years out of these with the abuse I give them. Most people with the Calmini bushings are lucky to get six months.

Dave's bushings are also made from a true bushing alloy to take a lot more abuse.

While Calmini made some beefy designs, their customer service has been lacking at times and they fail to address their problems. I believe Dave has solved that issue.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 6:15 pm 
Offline
Noob

Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:53 am
Posts: 4
Yea I saw the grease channels, They look much deeper and better design. The issue I am thinking (just a thought) is that if there is no path for the air/ grease to get out then How is hooking a grease gun to the zerk fitting going to do anything, there is only 1 path in/out the air will stay in and the grease will stay out. Aside form giving everything a good greasing upon assembly I am not seeing how to put more grease in.

Now keep in mind I have not torn mine apart and I may be missing something, But from how I am thinking they are assembled it does not seem to me that there is a way to get grease in and air out.

another question, In your photo the inner bushing looks like it is made out of some other material other than metal. I thought is was steel.

Mark

BTW I already orders a set of these, just pointing out my concern on the greasing issue, it May not even end up being an issue.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:16 pm 
Offline
Supporting Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 4:42 pm
Posts: 5700
Location: Oneonta, NY
msavides wrote:
Yea I saw the grease channels, They look much deeper and better design. The issue I am thinking (just a thought) is that if there is no path for the air/ grease to get out then How is hooking a grease gun to the zerk fitting going to do anything, there is only 1 path in/out the air will stay in and the grease will stay out. Aside form giving everything a good greasing upon assembly I am not seeing how to put more grease in.

Now keep in mind I have not torn mine apart and I may be missing something, But from how I am thinking they are assembled it does not seem to me that there is a way to get grease in and air out.

another question, In your photo the inner bushing looks like it is made out of some other material other than metal. I thought is was steel.

Mark

BTW I already orders a set of these, just pointing out my concern on the greasing issue, it May not even end up being an issue.


A few things. Many bushings don't have grease channels. Grease only works with a thin film. While not as tight, it's not dissimilar to oil in your engine, hence, the thinner viscosity. The grease channels allow you to store more grease to get to the surface-bearing parts.

The grease gets in because there are two bushings and the grease fitting is strategically located at the seam so it can get to both. Although they are tight, they are certainly not air tight, so air will get out. This style will take more pressure to get grease in than say a ball joint since the only thing holding back the grease is the rubber seal.

The center steel bushing is stock Calmini. Mine is steel also, it may look different because I painted the ends...why? Because I'm anal. I thought of drilling two holes in that so that grease can get to the center bolt, and while that would not be a bad idea, the weight-bearing part is that bushing and the bronze bushings, not the bolt. The flange at the top prevents the bolt from being the main stress point.

To properly grease this type of joint. You should put in grease, rotate the idler arm several times and grease again. I do this two or three times, which allows the grease to cover the entire joint. It may take some pressure on the grease gun, but you will get grease to flow out around the bushings.

You can't really see it here because I wiped off the excess, but it was coming out between the steal and the bronze.

Image

Also, I grease everything at each oil change and after each serious offroading run.

If these last two years I will be happy, I'm only getting a year out of TRE's.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:32 pm 
Offline
Noob

Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:53 am
Posts: 4
I see. That is the explanation I was looking for. I will be Happy if I see grease come out of the bushing. That would make me feel a whole lot better. I greased just like you said over and over again turn the wheel lock to lock over and over again with the stock bushings and never saw any grease come out the bushing. I hope I am successful with these. I hope so.

I noticed that you put zerk fittings in your calmini uppers as well. did you make any grooves in the bushings in those. I have not done this to my uppers yet. But mine go about a year before they start squeaking.

Thanks Again for the explanation

Mark


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:41 pm 
Offline
Supporting Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 4:42 pm
Posts: 5700
Location: Oneonta, NY
On the upper control arms I cut four 1/16" slices into each of the plastic bushings at 90 degrees and also drilled two holes into the steel bushings at 180 degrees.

The main reason for drilling the holes into the steel bushings was to keep them lubricated since they tend to rust-weld to the cam bolts. I was hoping to prevent that.

By the way, the only way I can get much grease into these fittings is by jacking the front wheels off the ground. With the weight on the tires, almost no grease goes in, but with them off the ground, it will squeeze out around the bushings.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 9:52 pm 
Offline
Noob

Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:53 am
Posts: 4
I just noticed something. Is there a reason you put the nut on top. Mine came preassembled nut down. I guess it does not really matter but it the nut came loose gravity would help the bolt out the other way would help keep it in. I know it is a nylock but mine was a little loose last time I checked it.

And boy it that rusty under there. the newly painted parts really stand out. But i guess that is par for the course back east. lol

Mark


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:50 pm 
Offline
Supporting Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 4:42 pm
Posts: 5700
Location: Oneonta, NY
I put the bolt in upside down in case there was wear on the bolt. There was not any real noticeable wear, but just in case. You are right, however, if the nut did come off, it is somewhat free to drop out. I really didn't think about that at the time, but now that you mention it, I may reverse it.

Rust is a bitch up here in the snowy North East. I try to stay up with it, but have not this year. Not only do they use salt, but they also use it with a combination of liquid calcium chloride. You can't wash the stuff off; you have to chisel it off. It's nasty stuff. We never wear out a vehicle. The drivetrain is fine, the rest of it rots off around it.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 14 posts ] 

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Theme designed by stylerbb.net & programy © 2008
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group
[ Time : 0.282s | 13 Queries | GZIP : Off ]
All times are UTC - 5 hours