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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:23 pm 
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Donald, yes mine came with all the parts. Everything in that diagram was in the box.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:38 pm 
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Nice

I want a Snorkel!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 10:31 am 
:naner2: That looks beautiful, Anthony! Can't wait to see it in use! Lake Christy is calling. See you in August!

Dave :wink: I dunno if they even make them for next gens yet. Last I checked at least! Miss you cutie!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 7:19 pm 
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anthony wrote:
Donald, yes mine came with all the parts. Everything in that diagram was in the box.

Well hopefully soon I will receive the missing parts (aka parts bag) from Volant Customer Service. Just as an FYI for anyone who runs across this problem make sure to use the email addresses that are "departmental" IDs. I couldn't find the link I used, but it had tony@volant for an email address but never got an answer so make sure to have a non personal ID email address when contacting them. Once Customer Service was forwarded the email to tony, I got a responce within 1 day.

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2004 XE with 2" BL & Fully Shrocked!;Volant CAI; Snorkel; BajaRack w/ lightbar; CoolKits 2, 3 & 4 (Rev Lights, switches, fuse block); Glow Gauges; Alcan Orbit eye springs (Damm lot of lift in them)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 4:18 pm 
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Just as a follow up to anyone looking for a 2nd Gen Volant COOL (NOT COLD) Air Intake. It is now available under part # 12740.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:36 am 
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dmpmfd wrote:
Just as a follow up to anyone looking for a 2nd Gen Volant COOL (NOT COLD) Air Intake. It is now available under part # 12740.

I believe these have been out for a while, unless it's another Volant model I'm thinking of. A lot of guys over at thenewx have them and love 'em.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:27 am 
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Well for those who have been waiting for and do want a snorkel for the 2nd Gens...

A/C's link

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 1:41 pm 
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Yeah, I saw XterraVT's new snorkel this past weekend.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:49 am 
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What size hole saw did you use for th TJM Snorkel? is it a 3" and does it need to be a special type for the metal? i thought they only come in wood cutting type...

Also any suggestions for not messing up? like do you put tape on it then drill so you dont slip? sorry for all the questions, i might be installing one this weekend.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:23 am 
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I use a 3 1/2" (89mm) bi metal hole saw. You need a little play in the hole to get it to fit right. Using tape, you'll gum up the hole saw. Just be careful and be extra careful in lining up the template.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:32 am 
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daggerdoggie wrote:
I use a 3 1/2" (89mm) bi metal hole saw. You need a little play in the hole to get it to fit right. Using tape, you'll gum up the hole saw. Just be careful and be extra careful in lining up the template.


Ok sounds good thanks for the info!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 4:23 pm 
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By the way, I also drill all the bolt holes slightly larger as well, so you can align things better. I believe I used both 1/2" bit for the very front hole and 9/16" for the others. Check for the mm equivalent on the template, but they are slightly larger. Also, file any rough edges with a round file and use a good-quality, high-zinc primer on any bare metal before installation.

The trickiest part is the brace on the A pillar. Get some extra stainless steel screws the same size because the ones they provide tend to break. Check the measurements several times and drill carefully. The hole in the brace should go around the stock screw well centered and for some strange reason, you will need to drill that hole larger than you think.

When you go to put it on, leave all bolts loose until you can get it all to line up. Also, make sure you put the secondary tube on before you tighten the bolts down or you will have to loosen them again...I know this all too well.

If your truck is a 2002 or newer, there is an inner fender brace that you will have to cut out. This is a bitch to do, but you need to remove that to get the secondary tube to fit correctly into the intake. The bolt on the secondary tube lines up perfectly with a square hole on the inner fender...don't drill a new hole for that.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:11 pm 
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daggerdoggie wrote:
By the way, I also drill all the bolt holes slightly larger as well, so you can align things better. I believe I used both 1/2" bit for the very front hole and 9/16" for the others. Check for the mm equivalent on the template, but they are slightly larger. Also, file any rough edges with a round file and use a good-quality, high-zinc primer on any bare metal before installation.

The trickiest part is the brace on the A pillar. Get some extra stainless steel screws the same size because the ones they provide tend to break. Check the measurements several times and drill carefully. The hole in the brace should go around the stock screw well centered and for some strange reason, you will need to drill that hole larger than you think.

When you go to put it on, leave all bolts loose until you can get it all to line up. Also, make sure you put the secondary tube on before you tighten the bolts down or you will have to loosen them again...I know this all too well.

If your truck is a 2002 or newer, there is an inner fender brace that you will have to cut out. This is a bitch to do, but you need to remove that to get the secondary tube to fit correctly into the intake. The bolt on the secondary tube lines up perfectly with a square hole on the inner fender...don't drill a new hole for that.


Ok thanks for all the info! I went to HD and got the hole saw it was expensive!!! So I came up with an alternate that I might give a try first. I bought a metal cutting bit for the dremel tool... It says it cuts stainless steel and hardened metal and is tungsten carbide. So it looks like if im careful I can make the circle with it. I might give that a try and if it just doesn?t work out ill use the hole saw.

Now I do have a 02 so with that inner piece I need to cut out how did you do it? can I use a hack saw or a cutting disk with the dremel?

Trust me im totally checking at least 10+ times before I drill the first hole! Haha Thanks again for all the info!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:37 pm 
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I have cut them out with a Sawsall and aviator sheers. You may be able to get in there with a dremel tool, but it's way up in there. A hacksaw will work, but you need one with no bow in the front. They are cheap and hold the blade in the middle...it will be a lot of work and sweat. Nissans are not built like the failing American cars.

Yeah, the hole saw is expensive. I have one for other reasons, like building my house. I find a Dremel tool very useful for a lot of things, sometimes it's the only tool to use, but for bigger jobs, it has its limits.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2009 7:23 pm 
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Scott, thanks for all the information it helped a lot! I did end up using holes saw, I figured just do it right... I have no idea how you got a sawsall up there to cut the bracket to fit the interior tube. But I got it to work and it defiantly was a PITA! I got to admit this had got to be the most frustrating install I have completed to date on my truck? Ill post pictures tomorrow.

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