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 Post subject: Lower Ball Joints - How To
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:30 pm 
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Now, back to the Blue X.

After replacing all four TRE's, upper ball joints and a rebuild idler arm. I took the truck in for two new tires and an alignment. I get a call saying they installed the new tires but cannot align it because of a bad lower ball joint.

I pick up the truck and go right to NAPA. I know these guys and I am prepared to ask for Fronty parts, but I ask for the parts for the Xterra. Good news is that they do list lower ball joints for the Xterra @ $71 each and the are a Moog part number. Bad news is I will be doing my lower ball joints this weekend and, again, getting nowhere on getting the Yellow X back on the road. It's just a PITA job.

Not sure why all this wear on this truck. It only has 42k on it and I don't wheel it like the Yellow one. I didn't do this kind of work on that truck until I was over 100k. Lift and big tires do beat the hell out of parts. I will have a completely new front end when I am done. Well, except I am still waiting on new UCA bushings.


Last edited by daggerdoggie on Sat Oct 03, 2009 12:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 6:26 pm 
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how big a deal is it to change out the lower ball joints?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:16 pm 
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Not a big deal, just a PITA. Probably three time the work of the UCA ball joints. A lot more things to take apart, including the UCA. Problem is, withing the last three weeks I've had this apart twice to replace parts. Snug up one section, and then find another loose section.

I need a lift. One of these days, I will get one so I can see everything at once when I move it around,


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:17 pm 
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Svendog wrote:
how big a deal is it to change out the lower ball joints?

http://xterrafirma.com/index.php?name=P ... sc&start=0

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:44 pm 
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Bklyn.X wrote:
Svendog wrote:
how big a deal is it to change out the lower ball joints?

http://xterrafirma.com/index.php?name=P ... sc&start=0


Thanks for the lead on the write up.
Since I'm going to SAS things soon enough, I won't have to worry about it, but it's good to know that, if I change my mind, that I'll have a plan of action for the work that I will need to do.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 3:44 pm 
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I'll take some pictures of the process tomorrow when I do this. I got the ball joints today and went to Tractor Supply Company to get a BFS (Big Socket). I did this with a 30" pipe wrench before, but I was able to pick up a 1 7/8" socket at TSC for $8. They're inexpensive tools branded "Farm Hand," "Hay Seed," Sheep Fker," or something like that, but the 1 5/8" socket I bought there has held up well banging on many pitman arm nuts.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 3:49 pm 
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I have some sockets from Tractor Supply and they have held up really well.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 9:06 pm 
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Good luck with the Install Scott :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 12:29 pm 
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Not to steal Tom's thread. His are great directions. After doing this before, I changed my strategy by taking more stuff off, which really saved me time. A big 1 7/8" socket and a good impact wrench really help. One side took me just over an hour start to finish. Last time I did this, it took all day to do both sides. Replacing the whole LCA is a two-day project, so avoid that if you can.

First remove just the outer part of your manual hub with 5/32" Allen wrench. If you have auto hubs, you will have to remove the whole hub.

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Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the half shaft.

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Since I planned on taking off the entire knuckle and hub assembly, I removed the ABS sensor line. You don't have to do this, but this is what saved me time in the end. Remove the outer TRE by removing the cotter pin and the nut with a 22mm socket. Put the not back on until the bolt of the ball joint is almost to the end and whack with a BFH. It will pop out with a few blows. Do not use a pickle fork as you will ruin the boot and possibly the ball joint. If you have aftermaket UCA's, unbolt the four bolts. This makes it easy. If you have stock UCA's you will probably have to use a pickle fork here due to lack of room for hammering. Personally, I almost never use my pickle forks or ball joint puller. I almost always pop them out with a hammer.

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This is not a good thing to see: A completely torn inner CV joint bellows. Luckily, I have a cashe of extra half shafts.

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Either way, remove the half shaft to make room. Again, you don't have to, but it will save you time in the long run.

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You now have a clean shot at that big nut on top of the lower ball joint.

Image


Last edited by daggerdoggie on Sat Oct 03, 2009 12:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 12:44 pm 
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You can see the four dimples knocked into the bolt.
Image

Using a cold chisel or punch, knock the tabs back. With every thing out of the way, this was really easy.

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This is what made the job a cinch:
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With the big nut off, a few whacks with a hammer and the complete brake /hub assembly is removed:

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I had loosened the lower ball joint before, you could do it at this point only if you have an impact wrench using a 27mm socket. I put the nut back on, almost to the end of the bolt and whack a few times with a BFH and it will pop right out.
Image
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Now remove the nut and the ball joint is out.

I greased the flange and thread of the new ball joint:
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Sliding the new ball joint from under the LCA, I was able to get a few turns of the nut from the top. I then slowly tightened it using a big socket. Don't use your impact wrench at this point. You don't want to mess up the threads and this will slowly pull the press-fit flange into the LCA.
Image

Final torque was done with my impact wrench.

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Replace parts in reverse order.

Done!

Image

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 12:55 pm 
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Great write up.
Almost looks easy

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 6:59 am 
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great write up Scott. I will get my lowers today from Napa. I have the joy of doing upper, lower and replacing the original rotors.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:06 am 
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WhiteX2000 wrote:
great write up Scott. I will get my lowers today from Napa. I have the joy of doing upper, lower and replacing the original rotors.


Good luck, Andy. If you have questions, it was all easy except for one frozen shock bolt where the bushing in the shock had rust welded to the bolt. I had to cut out the bolt.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:56 am 
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Great write up Scott. I only have 2 small comments:

when you remove the TRE Dont hit the stud. Even with the nut on the end. hitting any ball joint (upper, lower, outer TRE) even with the nut on can damaged the part. The ball will travel up and can create play with in the socket. If the take your BFH to knuckle the the TRE slides into it will come loose. it may take a few more hit and a little more time, but risk for damage is far smaller.

And the Upper ball joint (on the UCA) can be removed in a very similar way. Take the BFH to the UCA where the ball joint slides into it.

I only cuation this as i make a paycheck from wrenching and have had put new TREs on a car for free becuase i was trying to be quick.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 12:51 pm 
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Interesting that you say that. I've had this debate several times and it seems mechanics tend not to agree on which method is best, except that using a pickle fork is only for worn out ball joints.

I have never had a problem hitting the stud out, I have, however, knocked a ball joint apart by hitting it on the sides. I have found the latter to work best most of the time for me, although I have mangled a few castle nuts.


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