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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:21 am 
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You might want to take a look at you air intake system to make sure there are no breaks in it. I recently had a motor mount break, and the engine's shifting under load caused the air intake to crack after the MAF sensor. ((It was tripping the service engine light, but I never bothered to check the codes as I saw the problem.) This screwed up the computer, and the truck would either have no power, or would have power surges.

k_enn


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:37 am 
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coastie wrote:
knock sensor
ok so here is my first post @ nexterra
i just did the sensor re-do, because i've been throwing a 328 high voltage code for more than year (audible knocking).
then i clear the code with a OBD2 scanner
and now i'm getting a 327 low voltage code...
2002 v6 N/A, 80K miles

the only thing i could think of is the place on the manifold does offer enough surface area for the sensor, thereby not generating enough voltage...

any thought?

in the past gettting gas in new jersey has helped clear the code by it's self...go figure


I think your theory may be correct the N/A truck does not have the same surface that the SC truck does, so a different location is needed. Can you take a picture of your mounting location?


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 Post subject: i got same problem
PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 9:19 pm 
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i have the same problem so i hope to see you get it fixed lol so i will know whats wrong with mine !!!!!!!
hotwheeled wrote:
Quote:
"When you say the code is gone, do you mean you cleared it? If so, it may come right back. With a 328 code, which is high voltage, your knock sensor very well may be performing normally. If there is engine knock, that would cause a high voltage situation, causing it to throw a code and therefor retarding the timing, which would then cause your poor performance. It's a fail safe to prevent pinging burning a hole in a piston.

While a lot of factors could cause the engine knock, I would start by buying gas from another vendor that goes through a lot of gas. Run a few tanks and see if it goes away. You could also try cleaning the injectors with Sea Foam (there's a post on that in here as well). Dirty injectors could cause a lean-fuel situation which would cause it to knock as well."


Hi daggerdoggie

after the KS relocate,i cleared the code and it has not shown up again. performance is poor still. it takes 5-10 mins but peddle goes sluggish with no real throttle response..it couldnt climb a hill even if as suggest by my son, to strap a rocket on the back end. i am on the second tank and it hasnt gone away...timing looks still retarded with a scan gauge and my poor understanding on how to use it. sounds funny but i thinks it may be worse with the ks relocate.

thanks for the tips...gonna try a different dealer...wish i could diagnose this as the last dealer says it can find anything wrong after a full inspection.

what he missed was burnt out cats,leaking muffler and straight pipes.
tire feathering,wheel alignment,bushings,two upper ball joints and a few other things so far.these have been fixed at a muffler shop and a suspension shop...didnt want to throw any money at the dealer.

i bought this at a private sale for my son in june (was described by the cop that i bought it from as " a truck that wont disappoint").i test drove it cold and the KS issues were not there until it wars up. i then had the frontier inspected at the dealer before i paid...only thing they found bad was wiper blades, so i went ahead with the purchase.my son has been patient cause he hasnt said much but i know he want to drive it...its looking more and more like i was a sitting duck and got taken.

hw


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 Post subject: knock sensor location
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 10:37 pm 
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Location: new york, Westchester
here is a pic of the manifold where i mounted the sensor,
it is tapped for a 6mm screw,
the piece of casting is about 5/8th inch wide and the sensor is over an inch.
i filed and sanded the spot smooth to increase the contact surface area
but i'm still getting a low voltage (pending) code.

i just passed my new york state inspection with no problem so it can't be that big an issue....
Image
i'm going to have to try putting a washer under it though, maybe that would spread out the concusion from the manifold to the sensor, i'll report back with that.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 5:28 am 
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That looks like a good, solid spot that should work. Do you have an ohm meter so you can test the knock sensor? I know it's knew, but that doesn't always mean that it works.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 2:06 am 
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don't waste you time if your supercharged lol just put the sensor back where it goes. I did the relocate and did not help out a bit.where the knock sensor is its there to sheld all outside noise from it. what ever nosie it picks up will retard timing with the sensor back in the right spot truck fruns like new now. thou i don't know how the relocate works on the non superchared eng's


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 10:48 pm 
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daggerdoggie wrote:
silversuper wrote:
instead of spending all that money and time, has anyone tried this?

http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboa ... pic=1921.0

seems to require less skill too. excellent for me lol :)


As I mentioned above, I'm not sure why this works. Maybe they got lucky, but I don't know.

The knock sensor should ohm out at between 500k and 600k ohms, but it's not just a resistor. It's a piezo-electric generator that should be putting out about 2.5 volts. P327 is the low-voltage code and P328 is a high-voltage code. Since this mod just replaces it with a resistor, why are they not getting codes with no voltage being sent to the ECM? The ECM, computer, is just a glorified voltage meter. So I don't see why this is working. Maybe someone else can explain it.


In my searching around on this issue it seems the answer for some brand or make vehicles might be due to the resistor faking a static state of a tuned resonance type KS. Such type is tuned to what manufactures consider a ping frequency... This video explains well how there is different types and methods to test:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8xRJ...eature=related
However my 03' Xterra seems to be a mass type KS in doing the testing so almost a moot point in offering that video except that it points out that the KS puts out a variable AC volts rather than DC. So Dagger the 2.5 on a dc reading is correct but rapping on the intake doesn't present a change in reading. Turning meter to ac produces a variable reading from 0 in static state to .1 - .8 milivolts ac when rapping on intake. Hence my sensor setup appears to be working. Testing procedure was via unplugging the grey connector and placing red meter lead to the yellowish/white wires connector blade inside the connector when vehicle was off. It is the bottom right blade inside the female part of connector when looking from front of vehicle. Black meter lead goes to battery ground.
I think many might be looking at it all backwards. I have it from posts around other forums that when the KS is unhooked they alone do not trigger SES lamp. I've yet to confirm as I am not cutting my wires. I may pull them from connector though as a further test. :) I assume such vehicle's that appear to run fine with KS unhooked actually might be running at a default ECU mixture with no ping safe guards. Many older vehicles (like king cabs) with fuel mixture solinoids used to do this. If the sensor feedback loop was not complete the whole system defaulted to a rich mixture so it would still run.
Apparently KS are able to become too sensitive from being tightened in too tight and hence put out too much or a wrong voltage perhaps especially when engine frequency (yes frequency NOT noise) is different from what is prescribed by design. Likewise if too loose or bad grounding to block it can put out or vary voltage to little.. what a fickle character these things are...
My NA 03' is putting out P0328 and P0430 codes so I have testing and tuning to do before I go buy anything. I'll unhook it to see if I can keep code from coming, I'll resistor it as a test, I'll voltage test it (AC volts, NOT DC) and then go from there.(edit: tested it, seems fine.. other code implies tuneup rather than O2 or other sensors). If all seems well with sensor (which in theory means actually triggering a code rather than not triggering a code when appropriate) then I'll move onto testing other things as likely the ECM is trying to adapt timing or mixture to compensate for a whole other problem and is triggering this mysterious KS code. The adaptive attempt perhaps is just not successful hence it reading things as a slight knock. My KS code comes back right away pretty much here upon clearing but can't justify blaming sensor unless it all of a sudden broke and has ability to become too sensative. I have to assume a testing role and assume ECM is running adaptively rather than correctly. My O2 state for example is not even showing ready in having done a self test. Problem of course here in Cali is not that the thing runs poorly (running a tenth of average emissions) its that I can't smog it with more than two of the various monitors not being 'ready' or the warning lamp being triggered on.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 5:13 pm 
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Update: A rat or squirrel chewed an injector wire leaving it running on one wire strand. Unsure if that was enough to make the injector malfunction and setting off my code P0430. I won't know if the fix took or not until I drive it some more and it does it's self test based on road conditions or whatever. Light may kick on once it does or it may be good to go enough for the smog retest.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:09 pm 
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KTM wrote:
Update: A rat or squirrel chewed an injector wire leaving it running on one wire strand. Unsure if that was enough to make the injector malfunction and setting off my code P0430. I won't know if the fix took or not until I drive it some more and it does it's self test based on road conditions or whatever. Light may kick on once it does or it may be good to go enough for the smog retest.


If you are N/A then the KS will not trip an engine light.
It'll trigger a code but everyone has that code and it does nothing for the performance of our trucks.
9 times out of 10 the KS has gone bad if it has that code.
My truck has had that code for easily 3 or 4 years with no issues or engine light or failing NYS inspections.

I plan on relocating my KS to on top of the intake manifold just for ease of access when it goes bad again.
It's really a pain in the ass to remove the upper and lower intake for a part that really does nothing for a N/A truck. :roll:
I'm in there for other reasons, but it still sucks.

Good luck with your trouble shooting.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 12:38 am 
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O1SalsaX wrote:
KTM wrote:
Update: A rat or squirrel chewed an injector wire leaving it running on one wire strand. Unsure if that was enough to make the injector malfunction and setting off my code P0430. I won't know if the fix took or not until I drive it some more and it does it's self test based on road conditions or whatever. Light may kick on once it does or it may be good to go enough for the smog retest.


If you are N/A then the KS will not trip an engine light.
It'll trigger a code but everyone has that code and it does nothing for the performance of our trucks.
9 times out of 10 the KS has gone bad if it has that code.
My truck has had that code for easily 3 or 4 years with no issues or engine light or failing NYS inspections.

I plan on relocating my KS to on top of the intake manifold just for ease of access when it goes bad again.
It's really a pain in the ass to remove the upper and lower intake for a part that really does nothing for a N/A truck. :roll:
I'm in there for other reasons, but it still sucks.

Good luck with your trouble shooting.


Yes I realize the KS doesn't trip light. Even though my ac voltage test while vehicle is off shows a variance I've no idea what the amount should be. The 2.5 volt dc is a running voltage sighted by some as being appropriate. That said, I get no ohm reading when testing at the connector blades so am unsure what the true condition of the thing is. Moving onward I know it alone would let me pass smog so am not too worried about it. It's the other code(s) or issues that are worrisome. Catalyst threshold code P0430 originally accompanied the PO328 and now I got it gone (so far) via carb cleaner and Seafoaming the intake. Of course getting carb cleaner in some wrong lines is likely now to blame in setting off a P0441 evap purge flow code.. Blew the few lines with air and it turned into a more generic PO440. Maybe it'll go away with a day or so driving.. Good news is that the deep cleaning apparently worked on the catalyst issue and after a few mile drive the system did complete the catalyst monitor test without triggering a light or code. The monitors not reading as Ready yet are evap, o2sensor, and egr. The egr one took the place of the catalyst so I am still at 3 monitors left undone which means no smog test yet. Not sure if they are based on road conditions, how many restarts, or miles driven , or that the system knows already something is up with their systems. I guess the egr will get pulled and cleaned and then I drive it for awhile and see what happens.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:11 pm 
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Update: And so another half a day goes by with just a midday drive across town since the deep Seafoam cleaning. The temporary Evap code issue from carb cleaner dried up, no catylist threshold P0430 code, and all 8 monitors have ran their self tests without problem. Am ready for smog retest regardless of the knock sensor... The magic of alcohol & naptha (aka Seafoam) wins again!!
It really is a sad thing to have seen the dozens of posts spread out around the net on forums that imply same catalyst issues. Imagine the hundreds of people that just go drop $1k plus at dealer for major work they likely do not need. There is like a half dozen in this forum alone.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:12 pm 
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The_Hammer wrote:
don't waste you time if your supercharged lol just put the sensor back where it goes. I did the relocate and did not help out a bit.where the knock sensor is its there to sheld all outside noise from it. what ever nosie it picks up will retard timing with the sensor back in the right spot truck fruns like new now. thou i don't know how the relocate works on the non superchared eng's


It's still working great on mine.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:56 pm 
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OK, I will preface this post with the disclosure that I am an electrical idiot overall; even more so when it comes to car stuff.

So my check engine light just came on (background - 2004 X with 89,500 miles), and I took it to AutoZone for them to hook it up to their scanner to see what it might be so I could figure out what action I needed to take. I thought it may be either an O2 sensor, or maybe because the normal 100K mile timing belt replacement is creeping up.

Short of the long, the following codes came up:

P0455
P1448
P0328

The first two I'm told are more than likely related to either not having the gas cap on tight enough, or from filling up while my truck is running (has never happened before in the latter circumstance, which I hardly ever do as it is).

The 0328 code is obviously the knock sensor, which can be going off for several reasons. I'm going to disconnect the battery to see if it's not an issue around needing to reset the computer due to the "gas" issue, or if it's something else more persistent.

I saw earlier in an another post on here that the knock sensor won't cause the check engine light to go on, so hopefully by resetting the computer with a full backup power drain will self correct that, or get me closer to discovering the true nature behind the check engine light.

My question around replacing the knock sensor if I that's what I ultimately need to do; why is it so difficult to do this procedure? Just seems like you would remove the old one from it's current mounting position, then plug the new sensor into the wiring harness and remount to the engine block, no? I don't plan or feel the need to relocate it (not sure why you would even have to), so I wouldn't need to lengthen anything or change wiring harnesses to do just a simple sensor swap out, right?

Or, is my previously noted electrical idiocy coming through in true form with this post?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:29 pm 
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Quote:
My question around replacing the knock sensor if I that's what I ultimately need to do; why is it so difficult to do this procedure? Just seems like you would remove the old one from it's current mounting position, then plug the new sensor into the wiring harness and remount to the engine block, no? I don't plan or feel the need to relocate it (not sure why you would even have to), so I wouldn't need to lengthen anything or change wiring harnesses to do just a simple sensor swap out, right?

Or, is my previously noted electrical idiocy coming through in true form with this post?


This not yet an example of your supposed electrical idiocy. It is but an example of you not understanding the location of the sensor. It is located underneith the intake and impossable to replace by all accounts. If anyone knows different they sure are holding onto as if it the holy grail of all secret. Replacing sensor makes for something like 8-10 hours of work and run something like $1k+ at a shop.
What you need to focus on is the cause of the evap and vacuum codes as likely the knock sensor code will be cured on it's own upon fixing the main issue and/or code clearing. Clearing knock code before fixing main issue will just see the knock code come right back pretty much immedieltly as it coming in first place is symtomatic of numerous other possible causes rather than it itself being broken. Yes I hear they can go bad or be installed such that they are too sensitive but essentially the thing is there for a reason to warn you or message you and generally it's message given is confirmation that something needs attention in the system. So in other words don't blaim the messenger. Treat the messenger as your friend until you've tested them out and proved them bad. If found bad then off with it's ugly head... 8)

ps- I would check to make sure all vac lines are hooked up and squirt carb cleaner or starting fluid in and around all the lines and evap components while engine is running. If engine speed changes you got a leak to fix. I would then move to the inside of the system and flush with compressed air or carb cleaners. In the past I've usually just went for it and soaked everything down good with such cleaner but really nowadays best advice is to be careful using solvents in or around some types of sensors or component. Like mass air temp (MAT) sensors maybe be sensitive and get ruined by cleaners. Got to use some good judgement is all I can say there.. Good Luck!!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 4:37 pm 
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Quote:
ps- I would check to make sure all vac lines are hooked up and squirt carb cleaner or starting fluid in and around all the lines and evap components while engine is running.


NEVER USE CARB CLEANER ON A FUEL INJECTED MOTOR.

Carb cleaner will destroy any rubber or plastic pieces.

And people have been able to reach under the intact and unplug the KS harness or unplug it from the top of the valve cover to relocate it on top of the motor, or bypass it altogether with a resistor.

I'm going to replace mine since my motor is torn apart already, but if it goes again, I'll just bypass it.
Not worth the labor.

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