There have been a few posts recently about steering box and steering column issues/recalls.

I replaced my old leaky steering box and recalled steering shaft a few months ago, and I'm a little bored at work right now, so here is the process:

Note:
If you have received a recall notice on your steering shaft, if possible, have the recall work done first. Let Nissan loosen all of those rusted bolts for you instead of busting up your knuckles
On the same note, if you have a modified X and the dealer wouldn’t touch the recall notice because of it (like me), now is the time to replace this part. Mine was VERY stiff, I was lucky it didn’t break. My local dealer (West Herr) had the part in stock for about $150.

Tools needed:
Flare nut wrenches (12mm and 14mm I think)
Pitman arm puller ($15 at your local parts store)
Ball joint fork
Standard metric socket set
41mm socket (3/4” or 1” drive) (I picked up a 3/4" metric SET for $50 at HF)
Cheater bar for ratchet
Torque wrench
Hammer

Pre-work
PB Blaster the crap out of:
PS line connections at the top of the box
Pitman arm nut AND above the pitman arm (try to get some into the tapered shaft area)
Pitman arm ball joint connection
Bolts and nuts that secure the box to the frame horn
U-joint connection at steering box/steering column AND at the steering column/firewall connection

VERY IMPORTANT BEFORE REMOVING ANY PART:
Lock the steering wheel in the STRAIGHT orientation with straps, rope, whatever. You DO NOT want the steering wheel to move while the system is apart.

Step 1:
Block the wheels, jack up the front end and remove the driver’s side wheel.
Place X on jack stands

Step 2:
Place bucket or drip pan under the steering box
Remove the PS lines from the top of the steering box
Let fluid drain
Plug or wrap PS line ends to keep crap out

Step 3:
Remove Pitman arm ball joint from the center link

Step 4:
Remove pitman arm from steering box
This was the hard part for me.
I had to use a 3’ cheater bar with the 41mm socket to break the nut loose. I think it’s torque to something like 180 ft.lbs.
I had to apply quite a bit of heat to the pitman arm, then put the pitman arm puller on. With the puller on and torque pretty good, I had to beat on the top of the pitman arm pretty good to get it to release.


Step 5:
Remove the steering column connecting rod
Loosen the top connection point first and SLIGHTLY pry the connection open to release the splines
Remove the shaft from the steering box
**Note** There is only one way that the u-joint can attach to the steering box – There is a grove cut in the steering box shaft. This also goes for the connection at the firewall.

Step 6:
Remove the steering box from the frame horn with (4) bolts.
It is helpful to have another person here for this, but not necessary.

Step 7:
Reverse everything above.
Refill your PS reservoir with NEW fluid.
Remember to follow Nissan torque specs on EVERY bolt, it is your steering system after all.

If the Guru's have any added wisdom, or corrections to my hazy memory, please chime in!

That should be it. As usual, this is how I replaced my steering box, I do not imply that I actually know what I am talking about If you have any questions, by all means, ask up or check with the FSM or Haynes.

Enjoy!