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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:00 pm 
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baf6 wrote:
yeah just smack it really hard with a sledge on the control arm where the ball joint taper goes in...a few solid whacks and it should pop....if it does pop that way, you shouldn't need to replace it right away....if you have to use a ball joint fork, then 99% of the time it at least trashes the grease boot and you have to replace that, sometimes it will completely annihilate the joint

I wouldn't hit the UCA; I'd stick with hitting the spindle itself. Just my opinion.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:27 pm 
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mtdewmike wrote:
baf6 wrote:
yeah just smack it really hard with a sledge on the control arm where the ball joint taper goes in...a few solid whacks and it should pop....if it does pop that way, you shouldn't need to replace it right away....if you have to use a ball joint fork, then 99% of the time it at least trashes the grease boot and you have to replace that, sometimes it will completely annihilate the joint

I wouldn't hit the UCA; I'd stick with hitting the spindle itself. Just my opinion.


Actually that is a common way to release the joint. Hit around the outside where the taper of the ball joint is and it will often come apart. I should at least loosen the ball joint enough to pound it out from the bolt...with the nut on the end.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:29 pm 
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Thanks all. These posts clear things up nicely. I wish it would say in the directions that you have to get physical with it in the first place. Lots of stuff I've been reading say that it should just fall off when you pull that nut off.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:43 pm 
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CGXterra wrote:
Thanks all. These posts clear things up nicely. I wish it would say in the directions that you have to get physical with it in the first place. Lots of stuff I've been reading say that it should just fall off when you pull that nut off.


Ball joint tapers should never just fall off when the bolt is removed. The taper is what makes them tight. Otherwise they would rattle and wear quickly.


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